Ritaboutit

Lately in food...

2012-01-11T18:12:00.001-05:00

Papa Giuseppe's Pizza and Pints, 26 Lakeshore Road E, Port Credit
Checkered table cloths, straw covered bottles of Chianti and an oven that cranks out pizza at a toasty 800 degrees all make for a truly Italiana experience. The dough is good. It is blistered with a dark brown crust and slightly bubbled mozzarella. A little bit crispy and a little bit chewy. Its' sauce is right too; a hint of basil and a touch of tang. My Italian heart breaks when they take a decent crust and good sauce and add crappy cheese and grocery store fixings. The Calabrese ($15) has way too much sauce for it's thin crust to handle. It's mushy. The green olives are the sliced ones from the can and I will bet all my Nonno's money that the sopressata, capicolla and pepperoni are all courtesy of Maestro, you know, the kind you get at No Frills. In our current gastronomic climate of premium or house made salumi, to serve such pedestrian ingredients, is an insult.

The Ace, 31A Roncesvalles, Toronto

The owner of The Dakota has dusted off the tables and put in some real reno time at this vintage diner, turned Chinese restaurant that has been vacant for years and years. What a nice homage to its' past. The old counter and diner stools remain as does the Oriental wall paper from its' Chinese days. We slip into the last booth for some late night mussels and frites ($9) and a few glasses of a Cali Chard. The mussels are steamed and spiked with fresh chili and plenty of
onion. The broth is light and the mussels are plump and fresh. The frites are more like fries as they are on the thick side but are crispy nonetheless. The original bathrooms are one of my favourite details. An endearing step back in time but with a fresh and ever changing menu.

Cafe Nervosa, 75 Yorkville Avenue, Toronto
There's nothing new at this Yorkville staple and I've been many times before. Never having been disappointed but never being wowed either. A caprese salad ($15.99) is the best part of our meal. Oven roasted cocktail tomatoes are still on the vine which I love. They are warm and squishy. The fiore di latte mozzarella is thick and smooth and the whole basil leaves do much better than being chiffonade. Grilled Tuscan bread and a drizzle of olive oil mean that you can build your own bruschetta. Unfortunately, a gummy fresh spaghetti and a lack of promised chillis, fresh herbs and olive oil in their pasta con vongole ($16.99) have me adding my own salt and olive oil in attempt to create some flavour. The clams are fresh but it's not enough.

Jumbo Burgers, 673 Runneymede Road, Toronto
I am burger obsessed. They are one of my favourite comfort foods and I have used them to remedy many a hangover. A recent article on blogto.com featured Jumbo Burgers as one of the best old school burgers in Toronto http://www.blogto.com/toronto/the_best_old-school_burgers_in_toronto/ . The comment section was enough to send me there. Well, I don't mean to sound like a food snob (that might be a lie) but what the hell are these people talking about? This burger was easily one of the worst ones I have ever eaten. Thank god it only set me back $3.70 because this is one disappointing burger. First of all, it's not jumbo. It's barely bigger than a McDonald's patty. Oh wait, maybe the jumbo refers to the huge bun that this sad little patty sits between? It's only saving grace was the char-grilled flavour. Your topping choices include tomato, pickles, ketchup, relish, mustard, onions and mayo that is sitting room temp on the counter. No thanks on the mayo and how can you have a burger without lettuce?? The rings were freezer burnt and after struggling through three, I threw them out. This place has been around for decades but I have no idea how they have lasted. A total waste of calories.

Happy New Year!

2012-01-02T18:17:00.000-05:00

I spent my last days of 2011 up north with friends eating and drinking way too much and although I'm on a bit of a new year detox, there is alot of places that I look forward to dining at and things that I can't wait to eat. I've said it many times but I will say it again, not only to I love to eat out but I love telling my "stories". Good or bad, I always hope to be your dining compass.

Toronto is a great city for eating out and there has been a lot of excitement about some of the new places that have opened. On my current 'to eat' list is The Westerly http://www.thewesterlyrestaurant.com/, Pizzeria Defina http://www.pizzeriadefina.com/ , The Ace http://www.facebook.com/TheAceToronto , Enoteca Maialino http://maialinoto.com/ and Grand Electric http://www.grandelectricbar.com/ and shame on me for not having been to Porchetta & Co. http://porchettaco.com/ or Agave y Aguacate yet http://agaveyaguacate.blogspot.com/ .

Stay tuned friends...

Here's hoping for some new trends to take over some of the old ones that we have been subjected to over the last couple of years. Although I love bacon, I can't wait to see that trend die. Bacon gum? Ridiculous. The concept of a food truck selling something other than french fries is uber exciting but unfortunatley with all the red tape in Toronto, this might be something we have to just give up on?! Sorry Suresh http://twitter.com/#!/spotlightcity , every party has a pooper. I also am over "local" and "organic" and "artisanal". Why did we ever give bonus points for how we should be eating in the first place? I do not buy tomatoes or berries in the winter and neither should you. Let's make reducing our carbon footprint a common practice not a 'pat on the back' opportunity.

I also don't pay $15 for a cocktail so can we maybe work on the elitist cocktail concoctions as well?

Criticisms aside (I prefer to view them as challenges) let's continue to celebrate what our wonderful city has to offer.

I look forward to continuing to fill you in on what's great and what's not so great and I hope that you continue to read my madness. I am grateful for you support and I wish you all the very best for 2012!

Rita Ricchio

Cheesewerks

2011-12-28T19:55:00.006-05:00

After a brief jaunt to London resulted in an exhausted wallet and an extended waistline, I’m happy to report that I am back in full effect.

You didn’t think I quit did you?
I ended my sabbatical with a trip to Cheesewerks, 56 Bathurst Street. I have been having a pretty serious love affair with cheese for many years so naturally I figured myself and this newly opened spot would be a natural fit.

Cheesewerks promises artisanal grilled cheese sandwiches made from local ingredients and it’s true. The cheeses are from various farms in Ontario such as Fifth Town in Prince Edward County and the bread is baked at St. John’s Bakery in Toronto. Add some local craft beer, some VQA wines and this place is the perfect picture of Ontario. I’m surprised they are not handing out trilliums as you exit.

With such a tight vision and focused concept, I have to say I went in with high expectations. I came out smelling like smoke. Perhaps the hood fan hasn’t arrived yet because the room quickly fills with smoke once a sandwich hits the press. It stinks and I’m coughing. I’m kind of happy though. The room is airy with tall ceilings and its’ large store front windows let in a lot of light. The walls are orange and yellow (no brainer there) and it’s cheery and pleasant. Although the music is a bit of a downer; who the f listens to Paul Simon?

I’m crushed when the counter girl breaks it to me that they do not have their liquor licence yet. I end up with one of their “artisanal” sodas. I’m getting really sick of this word but their house made blueberry soda is good. It’s lightly carbonated, has the right amount of sweetness and I like the whole blueberries that float around at the bottom of the glass.

You order at the counter, they take your name, you pay and grab a seat. Sounds easy enough but something doesn’t seem right. It’s seems too casual, too thoughtless. I sit and wait about six minutes to hear someone yell my name. I get up but it’s clumsy because the guy meets me half way yet serves me my food anyway. Maybe being given a number on a one of those stands that you can then perch on your chosen table would be smoother. Maybe a mic or megaphone would at least have some humour to it. I can barely hear “Rita!” over Paul belting out his adult contemporary.

Cheesewerks needs to rethink their serving strategy.

My New York grilled cheese ($9.50) and side of cream of tomato soup ($5.00) arrive on a baking sheet – originally cute. One napkin is chintz but the parchment paper beneath the greasy sandwich works well to sop up the butter and oil. Where’s the ketchup? Oh you gotta pay 85 cents for it. They make a roasted garlic and red pepper or spicy sriracha ketchup. No one charges for ketchup. I don’t care if it’s “artisanal”, that’s just tight.

The New York is thinly shaved, spiced pastrami with Swiss, pickled purple cabbage and grainy mustard on whole grain rye. I’m doubting the amount of meat on this thing justifies its’ steep price tag. The cabbage is more braised than pickled which sadly almost ruins the whole thing. It lacks crunch or the bite of pickling that would have nicely complimented the pastrami and mustard. The bread is a little too dark and dense and as I leave it sits in my stomach like a piece of lead.

The music changes and it’s now some sort of spa meets Buddha on the beach in Ibiza – it’s awful. This is cheese not seaweed. Play some god dam rock.

Now what about the cheese? The star of the show? The name sake of this whole production? It was stringy and melty and yes, ooey gooey but it was bland. A stronger Swiss would
have fared better. The biggest issue however was its positioning. Everyone knows that you must place the cheese on both sides of a grilled cheese when you want to stuff other things into the middle of the sandwich. The cheese has to act like a glue and hold the whole thing together.

Well, this cheese was one sided so as you work your way through it, the sandwich begins to loosen and shift. Sigh.

And what’s about the grill? The ying to this yang? They use a Panini press which is fine but for
me it makes Cheesewerks more of a sandwich place rather than a grilled cheese emporium. There was no grill on my cheese.

The cream of tomato soup is perfect. The consistency is just right. It is pureed with a hint of cream and the crunchy herbed croutons are nicely spiked with sage. For a lack of ketchup, I dip my sandwich into the soup.

Cheesewerks is new and of course will need time to fine tune their details. I just hope with such creative concoctions such as gruyere and kimchi or jalapeno jack and braised beef brisket, that they don’t let operational or logistical oversights bring them down.

And for the love of god, can someone change the music?

Keriwa Cafe

2011-10-26T23:13:00.006-04:00

If you've been following, you know my disdain for uninformed, colourless, hasty service. I make no bones about it; there is a lot of bad service happening in Toronto restaurants. Last week at Saving Grace I asked the server to explain what kind of sausage a debreceni was and the answer was "I don't know".

We cracked up but it really is sad.

Keriwa Cafe, 1690 Queen Street West, knows the meaning of hospitality.

Our experience went something like this:

A reservation was made and when confirmed we ask that it be changed from a deuce to a three. "We are booked but no problem, we will make it work".

The day before I was sick as a dog and tweeted, "Stayed in tonight w soup, tea and some NeoCitron. Gotta get better for tomorrow's dinner @KeriwaCafe."

The next morning I got "@Ritaboutit hope you're feeling better and we see you tonight at #keriwacafe."

We start with a few creatively crafted cocktails and as soon as we sat at our table, glasses of sparkling make an appearance. Why? Because our table wasn't ready when we walked through the door.

We had waited all of ten minutes.

The charming bartender came over to see how we liked the libations, the host was a doll and the server was attentive and knowledgeable. Executive Chef Aaron Joseph Bear Robe is also hella hot but I guess that's neither here nor there.

Keriwa's menu is Canadian. It's inspired by both the aboriginal and non-aboriginal cultures of this country. The server knew what pemmican and red fife bread was because we didn't.

They know that care and attention to their cuisine is just as important as it is to their guests' experience and it's a breath of fresh air.

The card changes monthly and if you hurry it's not too late to try October's smooth as silk butternut squash soup, the comforting bison short ribs with sunchoke Thunder Oak Gouda puree or the best chocolate tart Annette has ever had.

With the checque, a brown paper bag stapled shut with a business card. Inside, a cinnamon bun. Something so insignificant but so tasty with my morning espresso.

Post espresso I receive a "Thanks for tagging us at #keriwacafe we're glad you came in and enjoyed yourself! http://yfrog.com/oeyuvyj "

I wished my duck breast wasn't cooked to medium but more than this I wish more restaurants would get what Keriwa Cafe already knows.

One day, two meals.

2011-10-20T15:49:00.010-04:00

Lunch: The County General, 936 Queen Street West

A medium rare, six ounce burger includes pickles and mayo. For what it lacks in toppings (I kind of really need some L and T) it makes up for in taste. This is one beefy, juicy little bugger. The fries are a cup of amazingly crispy, cooked right potatoes with a smoky, housemade ketchup.

The already famous chicken thigh sandwich is soaked in buttermilk and fried to perfection. Succulent on the inside and extra crispy on the outside. Avocado chutney, coriander and green onion top the thigh.

I'm happy to report that a side salad is not mixed greens! Thank god for Bibb and cucumber. A refreshing scarcity of greenery.

I wasn't so happy with their version of a Reuben. Dry brisket and the stinkiest of gruyeres made for a dry sandwich and smelly fingers. That cheese is way too strong for that sandwich.

Cool cocktails, decent beers and a little rock and roll round out the experience.

They are open for brunch, lunch, dinner and late night (til 3 am) so plenty of opportunity for a great little meal.

Dinner: Acadia, 50C Clinton Street at College

This restaurant talks a big game of creaky porches, lazy ceiling fans, southern food and warm hospitality.

I'm talking about an over priced, hodge podge of unusual but underwhelming ingredients - imagine mirlitons, benne seed brittle, red eye sauce, nasturtiam, Anson Mills Gold Rice. It's about as impressive as people that use big words but don't know what they mean.

These dishes need less presentation and more seasoning.

Now you might be thinking that I'm off my southern rocker here because of the acclaim that Acadia has received thus far but trust me, don't believe the hype.

The menu is small and so the four of us basically ordered its' entirety.

The best; Northumberland Strait scallops that were expertly seared into a golden brown crust with a smooth medium rare center. There could have been nothing else on the plate.

Everyone is loving the shrimp grits. A little bowl of comfort with its' smooth and creamy grits and chunks of sweet shrimp. A ham hock consomme added a nice depth of flavour.

The worst; everything else.

A too mealy corn bread lacked salt and its' accompanying sweet potato butter did not taste like sweet potato - at all, in the least, zip. Over cooked and tasteless halibut cheeks with buttermilk dust (two ingredients that don't even belong in the same sentence), a Vidalia onion tart that tasted like it came from Whole Foods, fatty short ribs and strange desserts.

Most dishes were extremely pretty and well presented but I'd rather taste my $100 than look at it.

Local Kitchen

2011-10-04T14:10:00.004-04:00

As a professional server, my shtick is to provide smart and hospitable service. The smart is knowing your product, where it comes from, its’ history, what it tastes like. The hospitable is being charming, friendly and gracious. I’m even a little cute (if I like you). But most importantly, I treat my guests as if they were dining in my home; I want them, you, to have a great dining experience.

Last night I had dinner at Local Kitchen, 1710 Queen Street West, in Parkdale. I didn’t have smart and hospitable service. The smart wasn’t really the issue although I did wonder when my espresso macchiato was nothing more than an espresso and a side of ice cold milk?!

The hospitable was the problem. No smiles, no warmth, no joy, no passion.

The food was satisfactory.

An outrageously over priced white anchovy crostini for $6 saw us coming a mile away. Two fillets of nicely cured anchovies on top of a deliciously buttery crostini were fantastic but more of an amuse bouche than an app.

It was actually humourless but in her defence, she did warn us that it was small.

Like the pocket raping anchovies, the pastas are also on the higher end of the pay scale. I don’t mind paying upwards of $25 for pasta but it has to be good and at the very least, el dente. The pasta was so soft that you didn’t need teeth to eat it.

My mitri were stuffed with smooth ricotta and fava beans. They sat in a thickish brodo that was infused with woodsy mushrooms. Crisp pieces of pancetta sat on top.
Ditto for the pasta special which was filled with braised short rib. Tasty but toothless.

A lamb sirloin was on the tough side but a beautiful shade of medium rare. The mascarpone was an interesting and complementing condiment but one potato and a sprinkling of undercooked mushrooms made this “main” an anti meal. Serving it on a side plate sized plate only highlighted its’ size.

Local Kitchen is a really small room. The kitchen is an ugly, brightly lit room at the back that is a bit off putting. You can see the kitchen fart around with the plating of your order. This might be a good thing if it was busy but the fact that it was deadsville and our four plated still didn’t come out together seemed a bit incapable.

A “Would anyone like dessert or coffee?” while I still have half a glass of wine and about two minutes after clearing our plates, is a question that raises my blood pressure.

It’s neither smart nor hospitable.

We left hungry and irritated which is too bad because these two Italian boys have the right concept, a great location and a cute space.

If only they could nail their shtick.

Check out...

2011-09-13T22:53:00.002-04:00

The Bohemian Gastropub, 571 Queen Street West. They opened about a month ago and have a great selection of beers on tap and a German inspired menu. Picture a nice Weiss beer with a few pretzels and maybe a pork knuckle or schnitzel. I fell in love with Eastern European fare when I visited Germany and the Czech Republic a few years back and with the colder weather sadly upon us, this is what we need to be eating; warm and heavy comfort food.

Ask to be served by Nola, she is a bundle of joy.

A Trip to Miami Beach Featuring Myself and Nine Friends

2011-09-02T23:17:00.006-04:00

A very recent trip to Miami had me researching restaurants for hours on end to insure that part of my vacation would be a success. See when I travel, I’m as excited about the food as I am the sights, the weather, the night life, the shopping, etc.

South Beach has hundreds, yes hundreds of places to nosh making the decision process downright discouraging. Restaurants range from take away Cuban counters and greasy late night pizza slices, to touristy Ocean Drive mediocrity to five star plus, star studded dining.

Here’s where we ended up and how it went down...

Our stay at The Congress Hotel, 1052 Ocean Drive, included a breakfast credit of $5.75 at Kitchen; the restaurant in front. Choices were the basic bacon and eggs, pancakes, French toast, etc. but the coffee was good and hey what do you expect for six bucks? I made the mistake of asking for a mimosa and got suckered into the “two for one” happy hour (at 10:00 am?!). This was two twenty ounce cocktails for $25.00

Toni’s Sushi Bar, 1208 Washington Avenue, was a pleasant surprise. A hamachi ($18) and a spicy tuna tartare ($12) were extremely fresh and finely chopped. The usual suspects of pickled white ginger and scallion made an appearance. The tuna playfully included a few tortilla chips.

I will admit that I can appreciate the beauty of sashimi but I am a sucker for the rolls. Now having said that, rolls are rolls and there is really only one thing to note; Toni’s hit the mark with their colourful and imaginative creations ($4.50 - $19.00). The rolls were perfectly assembled (no falling to pieces as you try not to shove the whole thing in your mouth), the rice was the right temperature (not too cold, not too warm) and curried mayo, lettuce and kimchi are all examples of ingredients you don’t often see in sushi in Toronto.

Sunken booths and a nice wine list rounded out our experience.

BLT Steak at The Betsy Hotel, 1440 Ocean Drive, was recommended to me as being the best steak in the state of Florida. This could be true.

The room is big and airy with cool light fixtures and palms. The attention is on high quality beef but with a bit of whimsy. The back of the menu is an Angus beef chart that explains where your meat comes from. Your steak comes with a little plastic flag in the shape of the cow that states how you ordered it – rare, med rare, etc.

To start, they bring over a chicken liver pate in a mason jar. It looks like sautéed Spam but tastes like fancy. Its’ wetness makes it luscious. I played around with the cute pickled veg and the grilled country style bread creating my own little appetizer.

Next massive gourgeres with gruyere cheese arrive. Gourgeres are mini popovers. These were twice the size of a Yorkshire pudding. They came with little recipe cards in case you’d like make them at home, big shakers of sea salt and whipped butter.

And that was just the complimentary part.

A too tiny crab cake is not worth the $17 dollar price tag. It was as pretty as a picture but lacked any sort of wow. The shrimp cocktail was also a steep $17 but was much more satisfying. Three huge shrimp were perfectly cooked. They had bite. Nothing is worse than mushy, soggy shrimp.

A 22 ounce Prime Cut Rib Eye ($49) could have been shared between three people but two of us attempted it and failed. Ok not a failure really as this steak could easily be the best piece of beef I have ever put in mouth. It was a two inch thick, bone in, piece of medium rare flesh that glistened with fat from its’ extensive marbling. They broiled it at 1700 degrees and brushed it with herb butter. As if all that wasn’t enough, they serve it with some bone marrow on the side.

Mmmm fat on fat.

We unnecessarily added a side of under seasoned mushrooms ($11) and over cooked asparagus ($10).

Towards the end, I literally started to sweat.

Eight out of ten of us went back to the hotel to succumb to meat comas.

I went for an hour walk.

Cafe Medi, 1052 Ocean Drive, was a drag you off the street tourist trap with a $10 lunch special that was worth about $5. This was typical of most places ``on the strip``. My nachos were nothing more than tri coloured chips with salsa, sour cream and pureed guacamole. I avoided the super size cocktails and went for a bucket o beer for $15 instead.

Cecconi`s Miami Beach is located in the private Soho Beach House hotel at 4385 Collins Avenue. It`s where the stars go so naturally we had to check it out. It`s upscale Venetian and an extremely romantic setting. The dining room is outside but party covered by a white shade that at night looks like a pale grey sky. The space is filled with trees and foliage that are decorated in thousands of tiny white lights. The ten of us were seated at a long rectangular table that looked like a huge cutting board.

The app special was veal Provimi carpaccio ($18) with a lemony tuna sauce and caper berries.

The meat was not raw but rather gently brought up to a med rare and sliced paper thin. The tuna and capers lend the burst of salt and tang that the delicate white meat needed. I have to say, choosing a glass of prosecco as a complementing beverage was genius.

Spaghetti with Maine lobster ($32) was simple done right. El dente spaghetti lightly tossed in an heirloom tomato sauce with a whole lobster claw and moist chunks of lobster meat throughout.

It was a big bowl of happiness and the perfect last supper.

*side notes, advice, tips and final statements:
Make reservations in advance for high end places, don`t expect great service as there are 18% auto grats on every bill at every restaurant, be prepared to go to dinner earlier than you would in other cities because most close at or around 11:00 (we basically kept getting kicked out before we could order dessert), don`t be afraid of the colossal cocktails – they will put the rest in a plastic cup and you can bring it to the beach, do be afraid of the huge portion sizes and don`t over order.

Liberty Village

2011-08-16T00:34:00.005-04:00

William's Landing, 120 Lynn Williams Street

This bar and grill is the village's newest addition. So new that last week's visit saw wet paint signs and a ton of construction still under way. The menu stresses local, fresh and organic which isn't a new concept and quite frankly should just be a given but nonetheless we are still seeing restaurants riding the coat tails of these buzz words. We skip lunch as the space just feels too incomplete.

Our server recommends the Bloody Caesar because it's "killer". It is not. It lacks spice despite the hot pepper that swims at the top. The addition of basil leaves makes it taste like tomato sauce. The beer list is respectable so we stick to that. A few pints in, we share the 'Liberty dip'. It's hummus with ancho chillies, feta, avocado crema and pico de gallo. The dip itself is underwhelming and the chips are over seasoned and the flat bread stale. The highlight is the patio. It's spacious and provides a great view of the historic buildings of Liberty Village. A great place for some sunshine and a cold beer.

The Liberty Belle Bistro, 133 Jefferson Avenue

This tiny bistro is tres cute. A small patio in front provides refuge from King Street and is a great spot to enjoy some wine and classic French food. A strong attention to detail is evident in everything from the 1920's postcard menus to the black and white tiled floor to the stalls in the washrooms. You have to see the washrooms. The women's has wooden stall doors with velvet curtains and complimentary fem products while the men's stall door is made from an antique refrigerator door. I hate to talk about toilets but it's not often that you are pleasantly surprised by them.

Like the space, the menu is also small. The french onion soup is cheesy with just the right amount of crouton and onions. The broth is rich and cloudy. A steak tartar is under seasoned but finely diced. It needs cornichons. The braised short rib is the opposite and is way over salted. The accompanying mushroom risotto is the correct consistency and full of the kind of woodsy'ness you expect from mushrooms.

Definitely worth a visit.

A little Mexican in The Junction

2011-08-09T01:13:00.013-04:00

The Junction is that stretch of Dundas Street West between Keele and Runneymede that is both seedy and shady and yuppy and artsy. It’s home to some cool home outfitting stores such as Cornerstone and Forever Interiors. There is also Margret, the most bizarre bar I have ever been to in Toronto and The Sweet Potato, an organic grocery store.
The dinner options are sparse with a little pho, some Thai, a place for Indian and a cafe that boasts an organic brunch.

Enter La Revolucion, 2848 Dundas Street West, a Mexican restaurant . Like everything else in The Junction, it feels a bit disconnected. The owner is Mexican, the kitchen is Mexican, the menu is authentic. The walls are white, Jazz FM 91 is on the radio and the space is cheaply lit with IKEA track lighting. There is a Mexican flag that hangs at the back of the room and Frida makes an appearance but I’m not feeling it. I’m not waiting for a Mariachi band to spring into action but perhaps a little colour, maybe some cool Latin pop music and a margarita that doesn’t rival a watered down glass of limeade would be the ticket.

Thank god the chips and guacamole take me south. The guac is the perfect consistency. It is as smooth as velvet but with the appropriate amount of opposing soft chunks of avocado. Finely diced tomato dot the little dish and lime and cilantro are holding their own. It’s spicy too. Really spicy. Like not for the faint of heart spicy. The chips are crunchy but unfortunately taste like they were deep fried yesterday.

A chorizo flauta; house made sausage mixed with potato and rolled in a flour tortilla with cheese, sour cream and chives is the waitress’ favourite thing on the menu. It’s mine too. The sausage is out of the casing and simmered in smoky spices until soft and tender. The potato is so fine and weightless you almost forget it’s there. After rolling, it gets baked until the tortilla is lightly browned and super crispy.

Shrimp tacos are too sauce laden and the shrimp are too small. Their shrimpiness is masked by the rich, pepper sauce. There’s talk of mayo but I don’t see it.

Grilled chicken tacos are a better bet. The meat is white and tender albeit a little dry but it doesn’t take away from the light and fresh of it. A few onions, some cilantro leaves and house made salsa verde bring the green that they need but I want a little red. Every taco needs some fresh salsa and some red hot sauce on the side.

I hope for Tacos Al Pastor but they are only available on Taco Tuesdays when you can get them for $2.

Today is Wednesday.

Our dinner for two is somewhat el cheapo with two apps, two orders of tacos, three drinks, tax and tip adding up to a reasonable $62.00 but hey, who am I to turn down toonie tacos?

La Revolucion may need a bit of tweeking but it is definitely a nice addition to a the strip.

My Burger

2011-07-26T01:06:00.009-04:00

It's summer in Toronto. It's hot, it's humid. We are wearing flip flops, drinking a ton of beer and doing a lot of bbq'ing. Ah sweet, dear summer; we wait eight months for this.

The 'Between The Buns' installment of Ritaboutit has been a monthly feature since January but a recent comment has opened my eyes to the somewhat anti climatic nature of my choice to talk burgers. I realized that you, may be tired of reading about burgers and I definitely have decided that I, am tired of writing about them.

We love them; for sure. But even a recent Now cover story http://www.nowtoronto.com/food/story.cfm?content=181874 had me sighing. Again? Ugh. Let's not beat a dead horse.

The fact is, burgers have been en vogue for the last two years; they no longer are the "it" thing. The other fact is that it's July and the chances are we are grilling our own. So in a very 'unlike my character' move, I have decided to abandon 'Between The Buns' as a monthly review. I am not a quitter but I will now only talk burger when it's news worthy; either awesome or horrible.

At this point, there is really only two things you need to know. If you don't own a bbq, go see Shant at The Burger's Priest http://theburgerspriest.com/ http://ritaboutit.blogspot.com/2011/01/burgers-priest.html and if you do, KISS (keep it simple stupid).

When making your own burger, avoid extra lean or lean ground beef. Fat equals flavour whether we are talking steak or ground beef. I favour medium ground beef, preferably ground chuck but sirloin will do fine as well. The only other points to note are A) only add salt and pepper and B) do not play with it too much. Pressing down on the patty while on the grill will only squeeze all those delicious juices out. Resist temptation! Don't press.

Add crisp iceburg, processed cheese, homemade dill pickles, tomatoes from the garden, a side salad and a cold beer.

Moe Pancer's Deli

2011-07-07T11:28:00.007-04:00

Moe Pancer's Deli, 3856 Bathurst Street has been around since 1957. It's been remodelled (I'm sure a few times over) but the room maintains its' nostalgia. It's a dive but in the best sense of the word.

Tamara our waitress has been working there "forever". She won't divulge the time but she's an older gal. She is exactly who you want to be served by in a delicatessen; a Jewish belle with bleached blond hair, a face full of makeup and fingers adorned with gold rings.

She brings us a delicatessen platter ($15) of tongue, corned beef and pastrami. On the side, the rye bread, french fries and cole slaw. You make your own sandwiches this way which I like because there is no way I could get my mouth around the monstrosities that Tamara is serving up. It's a crazy amount of meat (you've been warned).

I prefer the pastrami over the corned beef. It's more moist; a little fattier. Thrashers of the freshly sliced, peppery meat with hot Keen's mustard and giant sour dill pickles are a combo of awesome.

The tongue on the other hand is a little too moist. It's too soft. I like a tongue with a little substance.

The fries are not fresh cut and are chubby and dry. Go for the potato salad instead. It's roughly mashed and creamy and has bits of sweet red and green pepper. If I had a Jewish grandmother, this would be her potato salad.

The slaw is also quite good. The cabbage is soft, well seasoned and dressed up in vinegar. I may have made it a sandwich condiment.

Meat aside, Moe stays true to its' roots with matzoh ball soup, knishes, kishkas and chopped liver.

Moe Pancer's is a bit of a trek into North Toronto but good food is always worth the effort.

Hemingways

2011-06-29T23:59:00.010-04:00

I realize that this is not a "burger joint" but I just started a new job in Yorkville and after working like a dog, I just wanted a patio, some sun, a Bud Light and a burger. If you ever feel the same, then Hemingways, 142 Cumberland Street, is where to go. Granted it's not my favourite patio in Yorkville (Remy's is but their food isn't worth a quarter) but it is one that isn't expensive or pretentious.

The burger is good. It's pubbish but it is fresh; they make 'em each morning and they are eight ounces of surprisingly juicy ground beef. Cheese is not necessary and I usually forego the bacon; not because I don't love it but because I try to watch my girlish figure. In this case, I'm down for both. There is nothing special about either accessory but somehow they both add a little "something".

The patty is thick and assembled correctly. My only issue is the absence of a pickle. You have to have a dill pickle. The Heinz squeeze bottle of relish doesn't man up - at all.

The girlish figure thing makes me have a salad in place of fries.

I should've done the fries as the salad is the dreaded mixed baby greens with a side of bottled balsamic dressing in a plastic ramekin.

I don't eat it.

How is it that you can make you're own burger but not you're own salad dressing?

I'm pretty sure the former is a little more difficult.

*Burger with side salad, 3 bottles of Bud Light (I was thirsty and maybe a tad stressed), tax and

a 20% tip for Sonia our awesome server, approximately $35.00

416 Snack Bar

2011-06-15T16:40:00.008-04:00

I had been to 416 Snack Bar, 181 Bathurst Street, twice before but never to eat, just to drink. Food aside, it’s a cool spot for some libation but just in case you skipped dinner, you can do some preventative hangover protection by indulging in the “snacks”.

Their micro meals are an homage to all things Torontonia; our ethnicity, our culture, our neighbourhoods and our people.

It’s genius really but more importantly it’s f’ing delicious.

We clumsily employed “the lady-and-the-tramp-like manoeuvre” as they do not provide cutlery and we really wanted to taste everything.

A sushi pizza ($5) is a real darling with a perfectly crunchy rice crust and hot smoked BC salmon. It is not doused in pink mayo. We shared then I ordered my own.

The bone marrow toasts ($4) are pretty self-explanatory; dollops of luscious, silken marrow on top of toasted bread rounds. Steve’s scared of marrow so more for Sandy and I. He went for the plain old oysters (3 for $7) instead and we doubled up on another marrow order. Yessss.

A mini mac ($4) is a recent addition and is exactly what you think it is; the cutest sesame seed bun you’ve ever seen, teeny, finely sliced pickles, shredded lettuce, processed cheese and pink sauce. There are only two differences between the 416 version and ‘The Golden Arches’ and that is the absence of the middle bun and that this patty is solo, thick, juicy and cooked to medium.

We order three more.

The octo taco ($5) is another newbie. A flawlessly braised octopus leg is smoky and charred. The tomatillo salsa and corn tortilla don’t disrupt the octopus but make for the best the vehicle and the ideal accessory.

I don’t have a sweet tooth but Sandy wanted the s’more s’plosion ($4) for two. It is literally a ball of chocolate and cookie and marshmallow. It’s a mess and even more than not liking chocolate, I don’t like chocolate all over my fingers. Unfortunately this is not a cutlery free dish.

There is really only one problem with 416 Snack Bar; I will never be able to just drink there ever again.

A touch of Paris in Toronto at La Societe

2011-06-06T23:04:00.017-04:00

Won't be jet setting to Paris this year? No money to back pack through France? Not to worry as La Societe, 131 Bloor Street West, sets to bring a little Paris to Toronto in an unapologetic, stylish and comfortable bistro that is the newest brain child of hospitality giant, Charles Khabouth.

Doors open on June 15 for dinner. Lunch will be served daily and brunch on weekends.

I'm excited by the hyped up design; think aged mahogany, leather, light fixtures from Paris and a jaw dropping thirty foot stained glass ceiling mural.

It's going to be stunning.

It's also going to have the only patio on this stretch of Bloor, a raw seafood bar, glasses of wine at every price point and inexpensive burgers that will go great with pints of Kronenbourg.

A modern take on classic French food means you will certainly see a Nicoise salad, cassoulet and steak frites on the local where possible menu.

Don't believe me? Check out what others are saying at http://www.thestar.com/living/food/article/1001044--openings-la-societe-bistro and http://www.torontolife.com/daily/daily-dish/opening-daily-dish/2011/05/26/la-societe-charles-khabouths-new-bloor-street-bistro-to-open-in-june/ . Or get the scoop direct on facebook at http://www.facebook.com/LaSocieteBistro or on twitter at http://twitter.com/#!/La_Societe .

Gourmet Burger Co.

2011-05-19T15:34:00.004-04:00

If you like thick and juicy hamburgers do not go to Gourmet Burger Company. If you like pineapple, roasted peppers, avocado, goat cheese or balsamic marinated caramelized onions on a thin, cooked through patty then maybe it’s the place for you.

Their shtick is local, 100% Canadian farm raised beef that’s aged for thirty days and never frozen. That’s all fine and dandy but Canada is not local and when you cook a skinny patty to well done, you can’t tell what you’re eating.

Needless to say this burger was dry. It had nice grilled flavour that you almost couldn’t taste because of the huge Kaiser like bun that the patty sits between. I immediately tear off as much of the bun as possible. I’m here to eat a burger, not a prosciutto sandwich.

I’m also super sad to see leaf lettuce on the bottom and skimpy toppings. The tomato is sliced too thin as is the red onion and the pickles. The GBC sauce (a mixture of ketchup, hot sauce, mayo and mustard) is void of any flavour. I should’ve stuck with mayo.

Gourmet Burger Company isn’t a total bust. Their beer battered onion rings are giant, crunchy rings of soft onion that doesn't slide out when you bite into them.

The fries are what I call dirty fries; they are darkish in colour as if the oil in the deep fryer hasn’t been changed this week. They are crispy and not too thick.

And Rachel, the cute counter girl personally brings us our order. The presentation is nice; the 100% biodegradable packaging is eco chic and your meal comes on a silver tray.

Gourmet Burger Co.
Four locations across Toronto
Takeout or Dine In
Open daily
Cash or debit
Not licensed
Washrooms
One 6 oz. beef burger with rings and a Jones Soda $11.81 including taxes

2011-05-11T20:12:00.004-04:00

June Harlowe Foods, 1627 Dupont Street

This cottagy resto cafe has a casual vibe that makes it a no brainer for an easy weekend brunch. Live music and $5 Caesars sweeten the deal. Blueberry buttermilk pancakes are big, fluffy disks of love. Someone in the kitchen is a master whisker. The eggs Benedict is comprised of large eggs, grilled (nice touch) pea meal and Challah toast which in my not so humble opinion is the best choice. I like the hollandaise even more than the bread. June has the lightest, lemony hollandaise on the face of this city.

Watusi, 110 Ossington Avenue

My friend Jen and I were stumped this year as to where to hold our birthday festivities. It was cute at first but now I am exhausted by the no reservation policy. How the f are twenty five people supposed to go for dinner without a reservation? Jen called place after place on our list of "hot spots" and they either wouldn't or couldn't accommodate our numbers or wanted to force us into a prix fixe. One place on the Ossington strip couldn't even seat us all at one table because they "are a small place". We dined at Watusi. It was a no brainer choice after the guy on the phone was not only accommodating but pleasant, professional and helpful; he even offered to order us a cake.

Customer service is not dead.

My favourites were the luscious pulled pork with wonton chips, the crispy chick pea fries with a jalapeno dip and the crispy mixed mushroom and asiago flat bread pizza.

The Buffalo Burger Co.

2011-04-21T19:59:00.007-04:00

I go cross border shopping about two or three times a year and when I go to Buffalo, I always, and I mean always, have lunch at The Olive Garden. Yes, I know the pasta is gross; don't worry I don't ever order that. They have some $5 or $6.99 'All you can eat soup, salad and bread sticks' thing that rocks. The white, doughy bread sticks and bottomless salad bowl with those light green hot peppers and canned sliced black olives. I love it. And the soups are good too.

Anyhow, enough about that. The point to this story is that for once, I had lunch somewhere else (it took some convincing). The Buffalo Burger Co. is right across the street from The Walden Galleria and right behind The Olive Garden.

Holy hamburgers! This place was awesome.

There was beef, Kobe beef, buffalo (otherwise known as bison here in Canada), elk, ostrich and wild boar. They say that "wild meats make delicious eats". I completely agree.

The Kobe beef was 8 ounces of tender, meaty, greasy, tastiness. The patty was thick. The bun had a shiny top, a grilled middle and was glistening with butter. The toppings were correct and in the right order: red onion, dill pickle, lettuce (romaine not some BS green) and a slice of tomato. There was a gazillion cheeses to choose from but I added American cheese because, well I was in America, and because it is my favourite burger cheese. I was not disappointed; it was a bubbly, oozy sheet of orange loveliness.

The buffalo patty was dry but buffalo is like that. It is a lean animal with barely any fat. A lack of fat means it's much healthier than a cow but it also means it's not as juicy or flavourful. I'm cool with it. I'm just pleased to see the farm of animal patties that is being offered.

I guess to compete with The Olive Garden, they have made their shoe string fries bottomless. After eight ounces of meat, I can't even finish the first round let alone request another basket but I like the idea.

Great burgers and skinny, crispy fries only get that much better with the 'Happy Hour' special: from 3pm til 5pm all domestic draft is $1 and domestic bottles $1.50. My eyes grow so wide and my grin so big and he asks if I'm Canadian.

I chuckle.

"Did my excitement over cheap beer give it away?"

"No, your accent did."

The Buffalo Burger Company
2013 Walden Avenue, Cheektowaga, NY
Takeout or Dine In
Open Daily
Cash, Debit or Credit
Licensed
Washrooms
One Kobe, one bison, two orders of fries, one draft and one bottle with taxes approximately $28.00 US

Spoon and Fork

2011-04-04T13:00:00.003-04:00

At Spoon and Fork, 1233 The Queensway, you can dine one of two ways: order a la carte off their regular menu or do the ‘all you can eat’ version from their special menu ($24.95). The latter should be entered into with caution as there are rules that must be followed...or else.

Rule Number One: You have to eat everything you order or you will be charged at regular price

Rule Number Two: There is a two hour dining limit.

Rule Number Three: Please do not order excessive food.

We decide to feast because we are starving and capable. We divide ourselves into two teams of two and decide to go page by page in the ordering process. It becomes a sort of game, a kind of challenge between what we want to eat and what we can eat.

Spoon and Fork is not the first of its’ kind; there is plenty of 'all you can eat sushi' in Toronto but none have the look of this restaurant. The dining room has that resto lounge feel. The ceiling is tall, the light fixtures are cool, and there is lots of black, a little bit of purple and a few candles. It’s Buddha and Zen and Vegas and Club all rolled into one. It is the fanciest ‘all you can eat’ that you are going to eat.

At Spoon and Fork, the focus is not just Japanese, it is equal parts Thai with a dash of Chinese. The dishes are small and shareable. They are also chipped, not properly expedited; splashes of sauce make them look dirty and they are literally dumped at your table like some sort of feeding frenzy.

To recall every dish would take this piece into another dot com so I will just give you the high and low lights.

Be sure to sample any of the tempuras as the batter is properly light and crispy. The peppery fried calamari with sweet chilli dipping sauce is another ‘do’ as is the curry pumpkin soup. Things get a little too Americanized with a scallop Rockefeller that takes an overdone scallop and smothers it in potato and cheddar cheese. Another downer is the agedashi tofu; lightly fried but also light on taste. The Thai dumplings are mushy and a smoked duck salad shows the meat more as a corned beef than a smoked duck.

Page two is dedicated to sushi. This is good because there is a lot of choice. This is bad because its’ quality is a small step up from Bento Nouveau.

A Thai green curry is surprisingly spicy. The chicken is tender and juicy and I like the chunks of fresh vegetables and the firm steamed rice. I get out the spoon for this one.

The beef teriyaki is nicely grilled, medium rare and tender. A jarred sauce is the only component holding the dish back. A Bangkok Street Style Pad Thai is overly salted and overly cooked but I’m just happy that it is dry. I do not like a ketchupy, saucy Pad Thai.

Desserts are not included and we are honestly way too full to proceed.

The last thing I need are some deep fried bananas.

Magoo's Gourmet Hamburgers and Ice Cream

2011-03-30T12:29:00.005-04:00

There are two things associated with The Kingsway: wealth and Magoo’s Gourmet Hamburgers. I guess they threw in the “gourmet” to appeal to the masses of money bags that live in my neighbourhood or maybe the gourmet is that they are made fresh on the premises using lean ground beef or that you can have alfalfa sprouts on your burger. Whatever the reason, this is not gourmet. This is ice cream, milkshakes, salads and char grilled hamburgers.

My first visit almost kyboshed the idea of paying for a second one. The burger was dry, the bun too grilled and why in the world would anyone put leaf lettuce on the bottom of the burger? The heat of the patty almost disintegrated the lettuce. The lettuce has to go on top of the tomato and it should always be iceberg because the other greens are not crisp enough.

The second time around yields better results (with a little direction) because the burger is cooked med well. It is not dry, it is nicely charred and the sesame seed bun is lightly grilled.

The onion rings are skinny and crispy and need no ketchup as the mayo/ketchup/mustard drippings from the burger create a sauce on the foil paper.

The fries are not skinny enough but are a pass.

The condiment lady has attitude and is totally stunned when I say that I want my lettuce on top of the patty but she complies. I still hate the leaf lettuce.

Magoo’s has things a little backwards (again). They offer a choice of three cheeses: cheddar, Monterey Jack or a mix of the two. Don’t get excited because it is grated cheese. Grated cheese on hamburgers is worse than alfalfa on hamburgers. And to make matters even worse, it joins the lettuce on the bottom. They tell me it’s so that the heat of the patty melts the cheese. I want to tell them that that may be true but it turns your cheeseburger into a cheese bun. These are two different things.

Condiment lady is going to really hate me next time when I tell her where to put her cheese.

Magoo’s has things mostly right; they just need a little guidance.

Magoo's Gourmet Hamburgers and Ice Cream
4242 Dundas Street West
Takeout or dine in
Open daily
Cash only
No licence
Washrooms
4 oz hamburger with rings and small drink including tax $10.45

2011-03-19T01:03:00.008-04:00

Woodlot, 293 Palmerston Avenue at College

I go to Woodlot to get my proverbial rocks off; my cool new(ish) Toronto restaurant rocks off. Unfortunately, I leave unsatisfied.

Woodlot is a bakery from 7:30 am til 3:30 pm.

It is a restaurant from 5:00 pm til midnight.

Their shtick is food cooked in the massive wood burning oven.

They have a small menu with a separate veggie head card.

The focus is fragmented and I’m left confused.

I quickly shun the vegetarian menu as tempeh, soy and vegetables have less to do with a wood burning oven than Lady Gaga does with modesty.

The carnivore in me is excited by the cabbage rolls and they do not disappoint. Braised duck, prunes and wild rice get stuffed into big balls of savoy cabbage and the result is ‘stick to your ribs’ goodness. I don’t taste the wood but I get over it with a side of mashed potato with bone marrow. With its' wonderfully smooth consistency and glistening marrow, this is heaven.

Everything else needs work.

Ok, not everything. The space is great. It’s industrial but intimate. It’s warm and inviting. We score a table on the second floor overlooking all the fiery action.

And the complimentary Listerine with pill cup shooters is a nice touch.

The service is friendly.

Now, everything else needs work.

An oxtail and tongue terrine is too chunky. It has a slightly gross meat taste. When done right, tails and tongues make you feel giddy but when done wrong you are full of regret. The pistachios add a cool crunch but the side of currents taste like Christmas and it’s March.

I wonder how Woodlot will tackle the change in seasons because their food is winter.

It’s comforting and warming and not what we want to eat the other six months of the year.

The haddock had a nice crust but is severely under seasoned and totally overcooked. Ditto for the fregola. Ditto for the saffron sauce. Ditto for the cauliflower. Why is there no salt on the table?

I could do dessert but I know when to stop spending money on a meal that is only half worth it.

Malena

2011-03-14T00:22:00.009-04:00

Over the last few years, Toronto has been obsessed with burgers, charcuterie boards and home style comfort food. ‘Mom and Pop’ joints are fun and holes in the wall have become dinner destinations. Don’t get me wrong, this is a good thing but after dining at Malena, 120 Avenue Road, I have to admit that a little fancy felt really nice.

This modern seafood estiatorio (Greek for restaurant) is the second child of Sam Kalogiros and David Minicucci. Malena is L’Unita’s little sister. Like any interracial relationship that decides to procreate, Sam and Dave’s Malena is the perfect blend of Italian and Greek cuisine.

The room is softly lit and intimate. It’s dressed with strong wood tables, shiny ceiling tile, copper pots, bar stools that are strangely covered in pony hair and silver studded leather chairs. The luggage tags that hug the napkins are uniquely cute.

The journey through the Mediterranean Sea begins with a glug of good Greek olive oil, some crusty country style bread, a small dish of warm, herbed, lemony olives ($6) and a glass of Greek sparkling wine.

This is what I like about Malena; it is an Ionian cuisine that is way more refined than the ubiquity of the Danforth.

The grilled octopus ($16) is sensibly charred; its’ flesh delicately rubbery. A stroke of rich Greek yogurt lines the dish while a super fun fregola, pancetta and root vegetable salad bank the octopus. The bacon and fregola is the boot in the dish. Fregola are little balls of semolina flour indigenous to the island of Sardinia that are similar to Israeli couscous only much larger.

A skinny slab of marinated sheep’s feta ($14) is sharp and creamy. The pretty shredded pear and radicchio salad adds the sweet and the bitter that balance the sharpness of the cheese. Sultana raisins dot the salad.

Executive Chef Doug Neigel makes the lamb sausage ($15) in house. It is plump, juicy and medium rare. Add a perfectly poached egg, some stewed gigantes (giant baked beans), a little tomato and a crostino. This is Greek wieners and beans.

The gnudi ($25) is made with sheep’s milk ricotta and tossed with braised rabbit and spinach. Crispy ribbons of parsnip garnish the dish. The gnudi themselves are incredibly weightless and delightfully cheesy. Unfortunately the accompaniments do nothing to elevate the dish. The parsnips are beautiful but I want to eat them as a snack. If you don’t get to them first, they become soft from the sauce. Braising meat should make it tender, juicy, almost stringy. This rabbit was a little too dry and had a little too much chunk. The gnudi would be better showcased with an ‘off the charts’ tomato sauce.

A Berkshire pork chop ($28) with celery root mash, Swiss chard and sweet apple caponata is greatness. Apple and pigs have been best friends for a long time and this dish proves that it is a relationship that is built to last. The chop is big, almost Flinstone(ish) but succulent and the delicateness of the mash brings it down in size. A potato would be too much.

L’Unita is known for their diversely flavoured cannoli ($8/3) and so it makes sense that Sam and Dave would bring the little buggers over to Malena. Tonight they are filled with a date mascarpone and sprinkled with crunchy, candied walnuts.

I know, I know, you’re probably wondering what’s with all the animal talk in a so called seafood restaurant? Well, Sam and David may call it seafood because sixty percent of the card says so but with such competence beyond fish, I just call it a good place for dinner.

Hero Certified Burgers

2011-02-24T01:12:00.004-05:00

I realize that The Burger’s Priest is going to be a tough act to follow but a recent visit to a Hero Certified Burgers counter only put them further in the lead.

It’s easy to find a Hero; there are twenty two locations.

It’s hard for me to come up with something good to say.

This is going to be a short one...

Their burgers are certified Canadian Angus beef. Even Harvey's has an Angus burger; it's not a sign of greatness.

Hero brags that their burgers are 100% range free, hormone free, antibiotic free and gluten free. That all sounds wonderful but unfortunately none of that freedom amounts to a tastier burger. These patties are 100% flavourless, 100% dry and 100% over cooked.

The sign says your burger will be cooked med well. The sign meant to say well done. In fact, this burger was so dry I was thankful for the otherwise useless “Hero Sauce” (glorified ranch dressing) that smothered it.

The Signature Hero Burger ($5.49/4 oz.) comes with the “sauce”, Canadian Cheddar and tomato. I add lettuce because you have to but instead of iceberg, it was spring mix. I hate spring mix in a salad let alone on my burger. You also have to put the cheese on top of the patty not on the bottom of it but Hero has that backwards too.

The fries were too thick. Skinny equals crispy. These fries are soggy.

Ditto for the onion rings.

Basically the only good that came out of this experience was the option for a whole wheat bun.

Hero Certified Burgers
Locations across the GTA
Open daily
Cash and debit
No license
Washrooms

Earls Restaurant and Bar Finally Arrives in Toronto

2011-02-11T13:51:00.017-05:00

On Saturday February 12, 2011 Earls Restaurant and Bar will finally grace Toronto with its’ presence. The doors open at 150 King Street at York and although most 416ers have never heard of the award winning resto giant, they have been serving their ‘West Coast Casual’ fare for the past thirty years.

Leroy ‘Bus’ Earl Fuller and his son Stanley Earl Fuller gave birth to Earls as a laid back burger and beer joint out west but the company now boasts over fifty restaurants across Canada and the U.S. They believe Toronto is the place to be right now and you know we love the compliment.

Like everything I share, I give it to you straight up, no bull and I promised myself that this would be no different. Here’s the deal, I have created three rules for myself when writing about restaurants: I will not review a restaurant during Winter or Summerlicious, I cannot write about a place that I currently work and I will not review corporate restaurants.

Earls is a corporate restaurant.

I hate to eat my words (although I really hope that you will) but I have to bend the rules a little for the sake of guiding you towards a good meal.

The bottom line is that I am impressed with Earls the way I am impressed with the independent little guys.

The dining room is dim and cozy, romantic and sexy, fun and inviting. It is the perfect juxtaposition of masculine and feminine. Rock and dark hardwood mingle with pretty white lights and supple leather seating. The bar area is large. There are TVs for sports and lots of seating for conversation.

The food is surprisingly “uncorporate” (yes I just made up a word). Their commitment to fresh and seasonal ingredients mimics the sentiment of some of Toronto’s best kitchens. Earls is baking their own bread, their sauces, soups and dressings are made in house from scratch and they change the menu regularly to reflect not just what is in season but what is hot as well.

It wouldn’t be BC without a clam chowder and Earls’ version is a recipe that has not changed since its’ inception. The clams are meaty and have the right amount of rubber. The broth is not heavy. It is slightly smoked by bacon. Bits of red pepper add colour. You could eat six bowls, no problem.

A rocket, beet and pear salad shows how goat cheese can be made into a coulis. The cheese is the creamiest and most velvety I have seen it to be and the sweet crunchy beets along with the softness of sugary pear all play together amicably. Villa Maria, a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand with its’ gooseberry and passion fruit notes makes the salad’s flavours and textures pop.

Earls provides their diners with wine pairing suggestions for all menu items making ordering a total no brainer.

The Bronx Burger is super fun. It has a crispy, skinny beer battered onion ring, aioli, greens, aged cheddar and a tangy pepper relish. The fries resemble those of one of the huge fast food chains of which I can’t mention here but you will know who I’m talking about the minute the fry hits your tongue. This is a good thing.

Earls surprises with a Jeera chicken curry that authentically spicy and a seafood linguine that is perfectly el dente and lightly tossed with a San Marzano tomato sauce.

The filet mignon is crusted with porcini mushrooms and dressed up with truffle butter. It’s tender and earthy. The butter adds the flavour that the tenderloin lacks. Earls does steaks well without being a “steakhouse” but I would like to see a ribeye in the mix. No ones’ favourite cut is a top sirloin.

A chocolate sticky toffee pudding with vanilla bean gelato and a glass of bubbles is the perfect finale. The ice cream comes in a toffee frico cup and I love it so much I eat it with my hands. The pudding is rich and decadent.

They believe in mixology and right now are showcasing margaritas made with Herradura’s El Jimador 100% agave tequila. The juices are made in house: blueberry, passion fruit and lime.

The wine list is extremely affordable with a lot of wines hovering at $7 - $9 a glass (7 oz) and a lot of great choices in the $30-$40 range. Some wines are made exclusively for Earls while others have been handpicked by their team of connoisseurs. One wine guy, Anthony Gismondi of Gismondi Wine and Wine Access Canada says that, “This is where Toronto will be drinking for the next few weeks.”

Sound like a corporate restaurant?

Yeah, I didn’t think so either.

Ritaboutit: 2010 Best Restaurant Review Blog in Canada

2011-02-02T22:55:00.009-05:00

It's been three days since The Canadian Food Blog Awards announced the winners in their nation wide search for the best food blogs this country has to offer. I am still riding the high since taking it in the 'Best Restaurant Review Blog' category.

Ritaboutit was born almost two years ago. She came to be because my friends pushed me to write (they think I'm funny) and because I had the fortune of meeting an insanely creative guy whom I owe big time for getting me started.

I've said it a bunch of times but I will say it again; I love this city and I love this country. I'm eating Toronto and want to one day eat cross Canada. We are lucky to live in a place with such diversity, a place where food isn't taken too seriously, a place with its' own food culture.

I want to thank the judges, my supporters and all the great restaurants and chefs that continue to surprise and inspire me to share my story so that you, my readers, can make good stories of your own.

I will keep writing as long as you keep reading.

Thank you

The Burger's Priest

2011-01-07T16:12:00.007-05:00

Now I’m not religious in the least but if these burgers are some kind of religion then bless me Father and sign me up. Shant Mardirosian, a former seminary grad is trying to redeem the burger. He believes in simple and pure ingredients and is deadly against the sins of over processed, overly spiced, frozen burgers. He claims to be a classic American cheeseburger joint and he is succeeding.

Toronto Life gives The Burger’s Priest the thumbs up http://www.torontolife.com/guide/restaurants/american/burgers-priest/ and blogTo readers are getting nasty as they argue over whether or not their burgers are the best in town http://www.blogto.com/restaurants/burgers-priest-toronto. Check out the hilarious whining over the fact that their veggie burger is not vegan friendly. What the hell is a vegan doing at a burger joint in the first place? There are veggie places, they are called Fresh and that’s where they should go. Leave the burger joints to us red meat fiends.

Food is so subjective that there really cannot be any clear or definitive answer as to who has “the best” but if you have any faith in what I say, trust me when I tell you that these little angels are the real deal. The Burger’s Priest is a greasy taste of Americana that is obviously hard to find “up here”.

Fresh beef gets ground throughout the day. The meat is seasoned only with salt and rolled into little balls that get pressed down onto a flat top grill when ordered. This technique results in patties with uneven edges which in turn results in crumbly bites of moist, slightly pink meat. No fillers mean that the flavour of the beef is free to shine in all its’ Godly glory.

A small, simple, white bun is the patty’s vehicle while honest ingredients dress it up: cheese, ketchup, mustard, onion, tomato, pickles and lettuce. I’m happy as I do not believe in junking up my burger with guac, salsa, alfalfa, peanut butter, olives or sautéed mushrooms.

The fanciest topping is “secret sauce”. It’s pink and tangy and goes on the ‘Low Priest’ (another secret item selection). Like any confessional session, Shant is sworn to secrecy. He will not reveal what kind of beef he uses, where it comes from, what kind of cheese he uses or what goes into his sauce.

‘The Option’ ($7.99) is a veggie burger but a veggie burger because it is made with a vegetable; the portabello mushroom, not with ground up mystery bits that taste like peas and saw dust. Cheese gets stuffed between two mushrooms, rolled in panko and deep fried. It is crispy and crunchy and oozing with hot cheesiness. It’s a little under seasoned but oh so overly creative.

I get crazy and go for ‘The Priest' ($9.99): ‘The Option’ plus a cheeseburger. This is a big one, I feel so stuffed and my arteries are pissed but it is worth every bite. There is nothing like this in Toronto. I love the dichotomy: the crunchy mushrooms against the soft beef. I love the comedy of it; only a person who needs some guidance would put a veggie burger and a beef patty in the same bun.

The fries are perfection. They are skinny and crispy and salty.

You don’t have to be a believer to enjoy The Burger’s Priest, you just have to have an affection for unprocessed, fresh, American style cheeseburgers. Lucky for Shant, a good portion of Toronto is following his gospel.

The Burger's Priest
1636 Queen Street East
Closed Sundays
Cash only
No liscence
No washrooms

Here's to a New Year!

2011-01-05T18:47:00.008-05:00

2011 is already shaping up to be pretty good with the announcement of the nominees for The Canadian Food Blog Awards. Ritaboutit has been nominated for Best Restaurant Review Blog and I cannot be more happy or appreciative of the recognition. Read more at http://www.beerandbuttertarts.com/cfba/nominations/

I want to thank all of you for your continued support and for always giving a little click and reading what I have to say about the Toronto food scene. I love this city and hope you continue to follow me as I navigate through the good and the bad that Toronto has to offer.

The Brunchcapades are over and although I will continue to brunch, I now am turning to burgers as my focus for 2011. We are obsessed with burgers, I love cows, am a red meat junky and it is a trend has been going strong since last year. So get ready to get greasy with 'Between the Buns'. Please feel free to share any recommendations of your fave burger joints.

Stay tuned and stay hungry.

The Brunchcapades: The Finale

2010-12-22T00:37:00.005-05:00

Date: Sunday December 19, 2010

Time: 2:15 pm

Location: Beast Restaurant, 96 Tecumseth Street

It's cold outside but I'm cozy inside Beast Restaurant. A small space heater hums on the dark hardwood floor beside me. The aromas seeping from the hidden kitchen start to excite my taste buds.

I've been following Beast on twitter for about two months. You can make fun of social media all you want but it works. Twitter is the reason I'm here. I've been salivating over their tweets and with Beast being a little box in a row of houses on an unassuming side street, I bet most of you have never even heard of it.

To start, French pressed decaf ($4). The waitress brings me the contraption and instructs me to wait for it to beep, press the big red button (there are three, all red) and depress the plunger. I think I did it right because the coffee tastes good.

The benny with house made pastrami ($11) is winter food. It's loaded with hot, stringy, peppery, salty pastrami and doused in a grainy mustard hollandaise that is light and vinegary.

The muffin is too dense and chewy and the plate misses hash browns. Instead the kitchen gives a handful of bbq potato chips. They are awesome chips but I can't slide them around my broken yolks. I finish with a few pretty little slices of pear and apple.

The service is scattered as she seems more concerned with brunch clean up and dinner prep. There is no quality check and for all she knows I effed up my coffee and there was a toe nail in my pastrami.

I'm not offended. Leaving me alone is way better than being a crappy server.

I will give Beast another go. They aren't jammed, I don't have to stand outside and wait for a table. The brunch menu is creative, my benny was better than good and with such juicy sounding things as biscuits and gravy with soft scrambled eggs and fried sweet breads with hash and eggs, how can I not come back?

The Brunchcapades: Part Ten

2010-11-29T17:28:00.004-05:00

Date: Sunday November 28, 2010

Time: 12:45 pm

Location: Lola’s Commissary, 634 Church Street just south of Bloor

Who is Lola? She was a showgirl at Barry Manilow’s Copacabana, a transvestite that gave The Kinks a hit song, the name of the previous owner of Lola’s Commissary, what the waitress would name a dog, what I would name a daughter and what someone kept calling me in Montreal when they couldn’t remember ‘Rita’.

Lola’s Commissary made Blogto’s list of best new brunch spots for 2009 and after spending a couple of hours there, I can see why.

The space, a renovated and converted Victorian house is spacious, bright and airy; a bit whimsy and a lot fresh.

Lola’s has a bunch of bennies to choose from and it takes everything in my being to not order some pork and hollandaise. Eggs Lola ($12) finds two large poached eggs on two corn tortillas with a smattering of sour cream, a chunk of avocado, a light green salsa verde and ancho chilli braised chicken. It’s tangy, smoky and spicy all at the same time. The cream cools the mouth and then the salsa wakes it up again.

There is a choice between a side salad, frites or sexy potatoes. The sexy potatoes are just mixed home fries; sweet and regular. That doesn’t seem sexy to me so frites it is. They are house cut, skinny and crispy like McDonald’s fries but not as good.

There is a daily scramble that they call ‘The Kitchen Sink’ ($9) and on this day it takes eggs and messes them up with spinach, cheddar, mushrooms, chorizo, onions and tomato. Every other plate that whizzes by is the scramble. It’s comforting, colourful and really who doesn’t like chorizo?

The coffee is good. The mimosas with freshly squeezed OJ are even better. The service is friendly and flawless.

Add another Lola to the list; she is also a nice place to brunch.

2010-11-12T15:59:00.005-05:00

L'Unita, 134 Avenue Road

The room has a warm sexiness thanks to exposed brick, mirrors and the soft glow of candle light.

Northern woods mushrooms ($7) squirt juicy browned butter into your mouth as you bite down on the earthy morsels. Ricotta salata adds a bit of lusciousness and chives a bit of spike.

Butternut squash risotto is rolled into arancini ($7) and stuffed with mozzarella and guanciale. The guanciale escapes me but I'm not bothered, I'm too busy getting intoxicated off of the truffle honey that has been splashed on the rice balls. They serve three but I could eat thirteen.

Brown butter makes a second appearance; this time with bits of fried sage and duck liver tortelli ($26). The tortelli are little bundles of creamy, rich liver mousse. L'Unita changes their menu to reflect the season and nothing says autumn better than this dish.

Nothing new with rocket on a pizza but twisting it to include lamb sausage ($16) over prosciutto is a nice idea. The crust is thin and the sauce competent.

Fries aren't exactly Italian but L'Unita has the crispiest fries ($7) in the city and so I'm letting it slide.

Unlike the fries, the cannoli are right at home. Smooth mascarpone cheese is highlighted with orange and stuffed into a crunchy but not too crunchy pastry.

Add an espresso and I am one happy girl.

The Brunchcapades: Part Nine

2010-10-31T21:35:00.007-04:00

Location: Saving Grace, 907 Dundas Street West

I first went to Saving Grace the day after Kat and Jer’s wedding. We had a good sleep in and so brunch was a late one on a Saturday afternoon. Not knowing what to order, I knew before the food hit the table that I would be back to order more.

My second visit was a calculated one as the hour and a half wait on a weekend was a tough one. This time, we chose a Friday at noon. It was busy but we didn’t wait.

There are only two problems at Saving Grace: it is teeny tiny and the dressing on their green salad tastes like water.

The rest is bang on. The menu is interesting and creative, it’s a lot of twists on the classics and it’s clear that someone in the kitchen has an affection for Mexican and Indian cuisine.

A BLT at Saving Grace is tucked into raisin bread and includes avocado. The flavours and textures are attracting opposites; smooth avocado, crispy bacon, sharp cheese and sweet raisins.

Their eggs benny replaced Hollandaise with avocado cream and ham with smoked trout. It was genius both in the mind and on the palate.

The French toast is actually made with French bread. Caramelized bananas are sweet and mushy and the bread is sopping with syrup and browned butter. Add a lamb sausage; it’s the perfect touch of salt to such sweetness.

The espresso is ok, the coffee is great and the tea is loose.

If you haven’t already been to Saving Grace, then go and if you have, then I know you'll go back.

Ruby Watch Co.

2010-10-13T19:31:00.009-04:00

Ruby Watch Co., 730 Queen Street East, has been one of 2010's most 'talked about' new restaurants. Obviously, I had to go. Now, this post is not going to be a review (per se), but rather a little bit of advice, a recollection of my experience, a certain word to the wise.

Here is the deal:

Ruby has been praised for its' food and criticised for it's daily set menus. You see, Lynn Crawford only serves one meal a day. It's $49 and includes a starter, main, cheese course and dessert. She will account for the veggie lovers, nut and seed eaters and allergic people but if you happen to be like me and not like chicken, well too damn bad if that's what today's menu is because that is what you are going to get.

I like the adventure of it. The unknown. The chance.

I do not like the idea of being forced to eat chocolate for dessert. I know, I know, everyone loves chocolate but I do not.

After a couple of months, Lynn broke and now posts the daily menus for the week so you can pick and choose which day you would like to go based on the gastronomy.

I am embarrassed by the current Toronto Star Restaurant Critic, Amy Pataki, and to be frank, I think that I could be doing a better job but to suite my own purpose, I am going to quote the drag; "Ruby Watchco is like going to a dinner party at the house of a brilliant cook, where the cocktails are dangerously delicious and everyone is drawn to the kitchen."

It's true, Ruby is like going to someone's house for dinner; you don't get to choose what you want to eat and the food may not be how you would have prepared it - this is Ruby Watch Co.

The salad was tender but like a 'Real Housewife', it was way over dressed. The sweet pear and sharp goat cheese totally out done by the wet lettuce. Not even the pretty fresh beets could save it.

The country bisquits, full of chive and cheddar and crunch and moisture were sublime.

The main back fired on me - it was chicken in a chicken wing sauce. What is chicken wing sauce? Beats me, all I saw was roasted chicken supreme in all it's dry, rubbery glory.

Sides were equally disappointing with chalky, slightly underdone potatoes. They were topped with a chive creme fraiche and thank God or else I would have choked.

Mustard greens rounded out the equation. I know they are good for you but I hate them.

Yes, I just used the word hate.

The cheese was a Lighthouse Tomme. It came with yesterday's bread (now toasted) and forced me to order another glass of wine to wash it down with. But being a cheese freak, I can appreciate this as a course.

I guess baking is her strong point as the apple crisp with homemade butterscotch and vanilla ice cream was also a winner.

Sadly Ruby didn't live up to her praise but then again, you can't necessarily take my word for it as today's mishaps could easily be tomorrow's triumphs.

I guess therein lies the beauty of a daily menu.

The Brunchcapades: Part Eight

2010-09-22T23:21:00.013-04:00

Date: Sunday September 19, 2010

Time: 11:58 am

Location: Holy Oak Cafe, 1241 Bloor Street West

Poor Bloor and Landsdowne, that wasteland of a neighbourhood that is best characterized by crack heads, a Value Village and a strip joint. It’s so down and out it gives Queen and Landsdowne a good run for their money (or lack thereof). Bloordale? Blandsdowne? This forgotten stretch of Bloor doesn’t even have a solid name.

The good news is that apparently, things are going to get better. A visit to Holy Oak Cafe provides a glimmer of hope. New businesses are popping up including a new bulk food store open; look for the giant walnut above the window (literally).

Holy Oak is a shabby chic without the chic cafe that does a Sunday brunch. The menu is small but big on good, honest ingredients. It’s creative, a bit elegant and down to earth at the same time. They squeeze their own pear, orange or beet juice and serve Intelligentsia’s Direct Trade Black Cat Espresso. The toast is organic multigrain and the syrup is infused with rosemary.

With mismatched furniture, your Grandmother’s sugar bowl and a stack of dusty, old board games in the basement, the kitchen proves you cannot judge a book by its’ cover.

The latte is perfection with its’ frothy top and big, bold flavour. No caffeine? The zing of the ginger lemonade can also wake you up. And not to worry, if you had a great Saturday night, they too are licensed.

The French toast ($8.25) suits the savoury as it’s stuffed with peaches and ricotta and comes with a big creamer of that rosemary infused syrup. Sweetness comes from the addition of strawberries, grapes and whipped cream.

The eggs Benny can be done with bacon ($9.50) but I’m not hung over so I stick to it as is; with cured salmon from a local fish market ($10.25). It makes me happy to see the addition of a cornmeal encrusted tomato and Bernaise instead of Hollandaise. Add a point for the fact that the eggs were perfectly poached and were not swimming in yellow sauce. Add another point for outstanding homefries – finally. Wedges of Yukon Golds are roasted with lemon and thyme. All this comes with a bright purple beet salad and fresh strawberries.

The food takes about forty minutes to make its’ way to us but they are busy, probably busier than they ever have been as more and more people buy into the promise of this neighbourhood.

Holy Oak may be more of a local hole than a destination brunch spot but if you find yourself in the area and don’t mind eating breakfast in a scruffy setting, pull up a chair, any old chair, and dig in.

Also posted on Examiner.com at http://www.examiner.com/cheap-eats-in-toronto/holy-oak-cafe-a-great-brunch-a-not-so-great-neighbourhood

Woody's Burgers Bar and Grill

2010-09-13T17:20:00.011-04:00

It looks like Woody’s Burgers Bar and Grill, 3795 Lakeshore Boulevard West, is on fire – literally. Puffs of smoke billow from the roof and the smell of burning wood fills the air. No need for EMS, it’s just what happens when you grill using Canadian hardwood as your heat source. Woody’s burgers are a whopping 7 ounces of local, naturally raised meats. They are made in house and hand pressed daily but when asked what type of beef is used, the answer is organic not sirloin or chuck. So it’s minced bits of whatever parts; passable because it’s natural but a better cut would be more respectable.

The beef classic ($5.35) glistens with grease but its’ insides are a little dry. The patty has a nice smoky taste. Close your eyes and you are sitting at a bon fire in Northern Ontario.

The beef stuffed cheddar ($6.35) is moister due to the patty’s center which is oozing with orange Cheddar. Not as smoky as the classic but juicier.

Woody’s uses sesame egg buns which are soft, fresh and a great base for soaking up the drippings.

Sure they have lettuce, tomato, pickles and onions but Woody’s gets creative with six different types of mayo, coleslaw, cucumbers, green olives, grilled jalapenos, pulled pork, Caribbean hot pepper sauce and a fried egg as other options for your burger.

Unfortunately, as good as the burgers are, the fries are not. They are too thick, too dry, not seasoned effectively or fried enough. The sweet potato fries are more luscious but still air on the side of dehydrated.

Flush your tank with one of their daily drink specials; a half price pint, mojito, margarita or Caesar.

* Reviewed for Examiner.com

The Brunchcapades: Part Seven

2010-08-29T12:23:00.007-04:00

Date: Saturday August 8, 2010

Time: 1:15 pm

Location: School Bakery and Cafe, 70 Fraser Street

What's in a name: School is a concept restaurant. They have a timetable (contact us), a Dean's list (the menu)and detention time (whatever that means it's Monday to Friday from 3:30 to 7:00). The room is meant to resemble a classroom but only does so with clocks and chalkboards. And I think I saw a shiny red apple somewhere. The beautiful exposed brick takes away from the sentiment but I'm glad because the last thing I want to do is go back to school.

I swear, I am not really that hard to please. I just know what’s up and more often than not, nothing is up. I’m going to make this short but sweet – well maybe sweet isn’t the correct adjective but you catch my drift. Do not go to School Bakery and Cafe. Do not even stop in Liberty Village. Do not try to sit on a patio that faces east then puts the awning up so that there is zero sun to be had. I made the mistake so that you don’t have to.

Here’s the thing, it doesn’t taste bad and the service doesn’t suck.

The problem is that School has had write ups and line ups and all kinds of praise and glory and all that jazz but for what? I will retort to my opening statement; nothing.

They claim to be a bakery yet the aroma of freshly baked wheat and warm, melt the butter kind of bread fails to show up. Instead, the cheddar chive biscuit beneath my benny is so dry that it is crumbling and with every slash of the knife the situation gets worse. It’s a mess. I have no choice but to down two Bloody Caesars just to swallow my brunch.

Ok, that’s a bit of exaggeration but we are en route to a TFC game and have to prep for the Carlsbergs.

The burger is the same deal. The bun literally falls apart and you are left trying to hold an overly thick piece of ground meat with your bare hands.

The poached eggs are too done.

The home fries are too basic.

The servers’ knee socks are too kitschy.

Sixty dollars later, I’d give School a C+.

The Brunchcapades: Part Six

2010-07-30T22:38:00.002-04:00

July has easily been the busiest month of the year for me. I moved into my new condo and as a result have either been at work trying to gather up as much money as possible or at HomeSense trying to furnish the thing. Short on time, I just wanted to go somewhere close to home. The problem is that brunch is pretty much nonexistent in Etobicoke. Breakfast on the other hand, is everywhere. I decided to hit up two of the most popular 'All Day Breakfast' spots: The Grille, 1596 The Queensway and High Seas, 1086 Islington Avenue. Six eggs later, here's the scoop.

The All Day Breakfast: The Grille vs. High Seas

The Grille
Ambiance: Open 24 hrs., family restaurant, recently renovated, fake plants, blinds, booths, middle aged waitresses, serves everything from breakfast, pastas, salads, steak and burgers to classics like liver and onions and the hot hamburger; open faced with gravy

Price: $6.99 not including coffee ($1.99)

Eggs: 3, I like them over easy, and well, eggs are eggs

Bacon: 3 pieces, small, crumpled and stuck together,“hotel” bacon (you know, that one that every hotel seems to serve that's fat is almost see through, nothing like the kind you buy at the store - where does it come from?), not too crispy

Toast: 2 pieces, white, brown or rye (I always go brown), thick, Texas toast style,perfectly toasted and buttered, served with a packet of ubiquitous Olde Style strawberry jam

Homefries: not really homefries but rather boiled then roasted with maybe a little oil to get a few somewhat crispy bits, then kind of mashed up, the potato bacon ratio was way out of whack

High Seas

Ambiance: Greasy spoon, diner, ocean motif, think mermaid mural and aluminum fish on ceiling, one middle aged waitress and Greek cooks in white shirts, serves typical fare: souvlaki, ice cream, burgers, fish n chips

Price: $7.00 includes coffee

Eggs: 3, same deal as above

Bacon: 4 pieces, big and long, separate, the normal grocery store kind, a little too crispy

Toast: 2 pieces, white or brown, regular thickness, buttered ok, jamless

Homefries: French fries, definitely not homefries but at least these were fried, thick, crispy

The verdict: The Grille is a nicer setting but you definitely get more value out of High Seas. But unless you are a trucker, over the age of 65 or broke, neither place can really stand for brunch. Someone (other than that awful Cora), needs to open a proper brunch place in Southern Etobicoke.

We're dying over here.

Parts and Labour

2010-07-11T11:48:00.006-04:00

Parts and Labour, 1566 Queen Street West, has been sold as a bar/resto/rock club for hipster thirty somethings by hipster thirty somethings. For the record, I am an (early) thirty something and yes, I bought the concept hook, line and sinker. A bistro style menu paired with cocktails and rock in the “West” sounded like a dream. I like Parkdale, love rock and hate those twenty somethings in nerdy glasses, beards and floral Laura Ingles gear. Get real kids, you are not different. In fact, you are all the same and it’s summer so lose the black tights under the shorts. Another newsflash: I don’t care about your new sleeve, I want you to sling drinks like a proper bartender and fast.

Sadly, Parts and Labour doesn’t fully deliver. I didn’t feel old and the soundtrack was rock but American Apparel threw up all over this place.

Just as tiresome as youngsters in uniform, is overpriced, trendy food. Chris Johns of The Globe and Mail writes of the menu as though it is cutting edge, something new, something exciting. Unfortunately, unless you have been hiding under a rock and have zero knowledge of the Toronto food scene, horse tenderloin and pig’s face should not shock you. It’s not like they are serving buffalo balls. Now that would be something.

The only item that ignited any fire in my belly was the lamb’s heart tartar but something told me to go with my gut and order the burger.

Sometimes, like when a one night stand seems like a good idea, your body lies to you.

A too thick patty, cooked med well (no complaints there), with confited tomato, onion jam, butter lettuce, aged cheddar and bacon. Dry as cardboard, I was wondering what the hell kind of beef did they use? Under well should have insured the meat be moist. Did I eat it? Hell no. Did I send it back? Hell yes. I don’t have more money than I do brains and so I questioned it; a mix of beef, veal and pork. People, we are not making meatballs, we are making hamburgers.

Veal is too lean and too flavourless and really, so is ground pork.

Pork belly instead of bacon wasn’t helping the situation any either.

The fries were passable but the aioli that topped them was nothing but a waxy, lemony goop.

A ribeye topped with Roquefort and served with the same fries was another disaster. A ribeye is my favourite cut of beef. So full of flavour from a high fat content, pretty marbling and a tender texture. Why on God’s green earth would you suffocate all that goodness with sharp blue cheese? You might as well shoot yourself in the foot.

The mistakes kept rolling with the hard as a rock flourless chocolate cake and the honey vanilla ice cream that tasted like the smell of Chinese takeout. No I am not on cheap drugs, it’s true and we laughed our asses off.

The communal tables add a cafeteria feel. A distressed hardwood floor and white brick walls make the space feel a bit gallery-esque. The best thing about this place is a series of colourful, similar pendant lights that run the length of the bar. It brings its' name to life. Oh and the drinks are moderately priced.

Other than that, I would save my pennies for a Big Mac and a pair of floral leggings.

*photo borrowed from Jon Sufin

The Brunchcapades: Part Five

2010-06-08T19:46:00.005-04:00

Date: Saturday June 5, 2010

Time: 1:35 pm

Location: Mitzi’s Sister, 1554 Queen Street West

Companion: Dorelle, my mother, likes strong coffee, only eats carbs on the weekend, hadn’t had an eggs Benny in over ten years

The problem: Like painting, drawing, photography and the like, writing needs to be fuelled by inspiration. Food that excites, that makes me smile, that gives me joy can really get the creative juices flowing. Even the opposite; bad food, careless food, horrible experiences can make creating a breeze.

This morning, it has taken me 45 minutes to write this much.

Mitzi’s Sister has failed to inspire. Hell, the last couple of brunches have been so sub par that if I don’t have a good one soon, I won’t even be able to write my name.

More of a bar than anything else, this dive is pretty dumpy. The patio has that cute backyard deck thing going on and the tables in the front window are nice but the “stage” area at the back doesn’t say cuisine it screams cigarettes and guitars.

We sat in the window and I gave my mother the street view. She’s that person you dine with that always wants the banquette, the chair that doesn’t face the wall, the window seat, etc. I didn’t mind and in fact found it hilarious that she was getting so grossed out by Parkdale’s missing teeth and dirty long beards. You wanted the window...

The waitress suggested the eggs Benedict and bragged that their hollandaise was house made which should be a given not a selling feature but anyways, we ordered it. The sauce was as thick as Elmer’s glue. Gloopy and slightly waxy the sauce had the mouth feel of Crisco. There was a lemony kick to it but I couldn’t forgive the texture. I was happy to see a muffin instead of a biscuit (ahem, The Hoof Cafe) although the poor thing was barely toasted which resulted in a soggy base. The butter knife could barely cut through it. Throw in an over poached egg and you have a buffet type Benedict.

Mitzi’s serves brunch til 3 pm and so why would they make their home fries at 7 am? OK, that is an exaggeration but seriously, those little buggers were so not crispy. That’s what happens when potatoes just sit around after being cooked. They wrinkle, they dry out and sog up.

The ‘ultimate hangover sandwich’ had my name all over it. My stomach was turning from the previous night’s indiscretions and so I thought it was only fitting that I eat a fried egg and bacon sandwich. This one comes with kimchi. I assumed that was the “secret” weapon for fighting a hangover feeling because really, unless you are Korean, why would you eat cabbage that has been fermented in fish sauce for breakfast? A too generous amount of garlic mayo and toasted sour dough bread rounded out the sammy. The bacon must have been made when the potatoes were. It was dry and hard, tough to chew. Bacon jerky?

The best part of the brunch was that it worked. I walked out feeling much better. Whether it was the kimchi, the two mugs of tea or the great coffee, I am not sure and I can't say I will ever return but whatever it was, in that moment, I was grateful.

The Brunchcapades: Part Four

2010-05-16T12:21:00.006-04:00

Date: Friday May 14, 2010

Time: 1:00 pm

Location: Aunties and Uncles, 74 Lippincott Street at College and Bathurst

Companion: Joe, a creative web technologist, never met but we have been "following" eachother on Twitter for about a year, claims to not be a sauce guy but smothers his pancakes in maple syrup

The story: So Joe and I don’t know each other but through the geniuses of social networking we begin to talk and realize that we know more about each other than we think we do. Meeting someone face to face with whom you have only been interacting with in a virtual sense makes for some great dot connecting. We talk about it and agree that a network like Twitter allows people to “know” each other in perhaps a much more real and candid way than any facebook or Plenty of Fish ever could. It’s pretty hard to bullshit someone in 140 characters but when given an entire paragraph or page, I could become a former model who has chosen to leave the biz to become a chef. He says that he can tell from my tweets that I am a good person and that I am happy. The fact that my small sentences have actually spoken to my real self seem like a success. What he didn’t know is that I have the voice of a child, a whiny kind of squeaky voice but hey, he said it was “soothing”.

We took our very 2010 type meeting to a very old school type joint. Aunties and Uncles is like a big piece of American pie with its’ vintage paraphernalia. It’s very diner-esque, very kitschy and one of few spots in Toronto that are open for brunch during the week. Do people not eat omelettes on a Wednesday?

The host looks like a lumberjack with his plaid shirt and big, bushy beard. He’s a character and we like it although he borders on weird. I was greeted with a, “Hi what’s this?” and can honestly say I had no idea what the f he was talking about. Apparently it translates into, “A table for ...?”

The lumberjack recommended that we share the breakfast tacos and the breakfast pocket. I started out with the pocket that really isn’t a pocket at all. A pita is a pocket. This is a focaccia sandwich. Soft, oily, rosemary infused bread is filled with ordinary scrambled eggs, congealed cheddar cheese, caramelized onions that were more burnt than caramelized, salty peameal bacon, sliced tomato and mayo. The commonplace ingredients were a bit of a snooze but the bread, oh that bread, was a real winner. It was sided with a very dilly, creamy potato salad that had flecks of crunchy mustard seeds. Not a baby green in sight; thank god.

I ate half and we switched.

The breakfast tacos were a bust. The tough “soft” tacos reminded me of bristol board and the cheese had congealed again. Bits of sautéed, minced pork are devoid of any real flavour and the ordinary scrambled eggs made another appearance. Call me crazy but tacos should say Latin or Mexican or spicy or smoky or salsa or cilantro -something. They definitely don’t say radicchio but that what was scattered on top. Tacos do like sour cream but the cool condiment seems out of place without any fire to extinguish. This dish comes with home fries. Sadly, the same dude that did the onions did these, as they were a little scorched too.

Because we were first timers we won two banana pancakes and a few pieces of simmered pear. The little cakes were fluffy with sweet, mushy insides. A drizzle of syrup, a dusting of icing sugar and a nub of melting butter completed the picture perfect plate.

We patioed it and my shoulders, like the onions and the potatoes, got a little burnt.

The moral of the story? More attention in the kitchen and a little SPF.

A little food for thought...(sorry, I couldn't help it).

2010-05-10T18:29:00.009-04:00

food
–noun
1.any nourishing substance that is eaten, drunk, or otherwise taken into the body to sustain life, provide energy, promote growth, etc.

That's what dictionary.com has to say about the meaning of food but if that's all food is or was, would there be such a thing as a restaurant? Would a meal bring anyone any joy or excitement?

Look, I know there are those that just eat when hungry and think of food as nothing more than sustenance. Those people who skip breakfast and eat cereal for dinner. They mash and mix their food up because, "It all ends up in the same place". I don't like these people and chances are if you are reading my blog, you are not one of them.

If I were to write the definition of food, it would look much different as I believe that food is as much about experience as it is about nourishment. Food is tied to our emotions. It is sentimental, religious, cultural and political. We remember taste in the same way we do our other senses.

I think we never forget certain meals, dishes, times, people and how they interplay with each other.

Food to me is:

The only time my Nana made duck and my Grandpa dropped it on the floor. We ate it anyway.

When my Dad used to make a big sandwich on really crusty bread. He’d sit in front of the tv with a checkered tea towel on his lap to catch the crumbs.

The first time I ate a raw oyster. I was a little scared of it but I just went for it. Sometimes eating is like taking a leap of faith.

Eating so many pieces of sushi, nigiri and maki that I have to say no to the complimentary green tea ice cream.

The spaghetti we all ate with our hands as children. We would make such a gross mess but for a kid this is so much fun.

Stopping at the deli to pick up different meats , cheeses and olives before heading to the beaches for a picnic in the sun.

The spaghetti with anchovies, bread crumbs and olive oil that we eat only on Christmas Eve. My father’s grandmother and mother made it. My mother makes it and I will make it for my children one day.

Better Homes and Garden’s version of mac n cheese casserole. That plaid cookbook is an celebration of North Americana. I grew up with it and yes, you have to have the slices of tomato on top.

Mixed seafood in bird’s nest in Chinatown at 4 am. Nothing wrong with a little “cold” tea and needing sunglasses for the way home.

That’s just some of my food.

What’s yours?

The Brunchcapades: Part Three

2010-04-21T10:48:00.006-04:00

Date: Saturday April 17, 2010

Location: The Hoof Cafe, 923 Dundas Street West

Time: Arrived at 11:10 am, Jen (part owner and mixologist) put our name and phone number on the list and said it would be about 45, we sipped coffee at The Communal Mule while waiting, got sat at 12:50 pm, was compensated for the ridiculously long wait with mini jelly filled doughnuts

Companions: Annette and Katia, friends of over 11 years, we call ourselves “The Triad” and are often either acting like thirteen year old boys or thirty year old men

Why they make a great brunch date: a mutual love and interest in pork and vodka is one of the foundations of our relationship, we can agree that a package of bacon for three people is not absurd, they love bread and I love cheese; sometimes it just works

My love and respect of The Black Hoof could only suggest that I had to try its’ little sister, The Hoof Cafe. My obsession with meat and offal lead me there like a horse to water. Jen’s house made bloody ceaser didn’t hurt either. It’s got to be five o’clock somewhere.

I take pride in the fact that I always give it to you straight. No B.S and this review is going to be no different although I have to say that this one hurts a little. See, I think Grant Van Gameran (the other owner and charcuterie master) is a cool guy. He’s a culinary genius and does fantastically creative things with animal parts. The bad news is, (insert wince) is that our brunch was no bouquet of awesome. It was mediocre at best. Do not believe the hype. It was not worth the wait.

The first problem is the space; I have seen bigger walk in closets. Diners are jammed in like chickens in a factory. It is just too small.

The second problem is the suckling pig eggs Benedict. Small eggs, flavourless hollandaise and mushy pulled pork on top of a biscuit that was as dense as particle board. Everything except the side arugula salad with a couple of pork rinds was tasteless. Where was the salt? The lemony zip in the sauce? The blue hairs on high blood pressure meds would have loved it.

Another indiscretion was the greasy tongue grilled cheese sandwich that was stuffed with a young, soft cheese - rind and all. I hate the rind. It made the sandwich taste stinky. The oily toast and oozing cheese did absolutely nothing to highlight the meat.

Thank god for the pork belly pastrami and sour cherry and marrow jelly filled doughnuts. The belly, so juicy with strips of fat had a nice drizzle of sweet maple. The really mini doughnuts were crispy with gooey pink centers and dusted with grainy sugar. The idea to incorporate a little unctuous marrow into the filling was sheer brilliance.

Add a fried egg into the mix and that would have made for a much better brunch.

Some Women Like Shoes, I Like Food

2010-04-05T12:32:00.007-04:00

One of my favourite activities is food shopping. No, I don’t mean going to the grocery stores (although that’s pretty fun too), I’m talking about food stores, specialty or ethnic stores, the little ones that are filled with exotic and foreign items. You can’t keep me away from them or get me out of them. I once spent two hours at Grant’s Asian Grocery Store at Bloor and Dixie.

These stores are where I find inspiration not just for cooking but for writing as well. Like a school trip, it’s where I learn. I read labels like stories and peruse aisles like a detective. Yes I know I am a food nerd but if you want to know where to get ancho chilies, papadums or tosino, I’ve got you covered.

Eating outside the box is just as important to me as eating within it i.e. for sustenance. Food should be fun and unpredictable. I realize some of my antics (brains, tongues, sweetbreads, eyeballs) are a bit much for some and downright Fear Factoresque for others and I’m trying to forgive you for that but that doesn’t mean that you can’t experiment in other ways. Try a new cheese even though it smells like dirty socks or an unusual vegetable that you have no idea how to cook, even something as safe as a strange bread. Trust me, if it’s sold it’s because somewhere, somehow, people are eating it.

You think I am the first person to eat a beef heart?

Offal aside, just take a little trip to an ethnic supermarket and you will be amazed by all the different colours and fragrances. You will even save a dollar or two as the “ethnic” aisle of the big box stores are charging you way more than the product’s value. Even worse are specialty stores like McEwan’s or The Cheese Boutique. Wanna laugh? McEwan sells sriracha, the one with the rooster on it with the green cap, for something outrageous like $5. You can get it for $2.49 in Chinatown. Here’s a tip: if you are looking for an ethnic ingredient, go to the neighbourhood where that culture resides. Get kielbasa on Roncesvalles, kefalotiri on the Danforth, kimchi in Koreatown, curry in Indiatown, you get the picture. It’s the beauty of living in Toronto; a beauty that should be taken advantage of.

Example: Kensington market is like a playground for food shopping. Augusta Avenue is home to Perola's, a latin grocery store where I picked up some corn tortillas, different salsas and some chipotles for an attempt at making heuvos rancheros.

Buca

2010-03-25T21:45:00.011-04:00

To get to Buca, 604 King Street West, you have to walk down a dark, quiet alley. Take a sharp right turn at the end and you are about to be transported to either Manhattan or Rome – think of a 'Choose Your Own Adventure' book.

Buca has a real New York vibe. It is easily the coolest dining room in Toronto. A landing fit for a queen calls for a dramatic entrance and swanky walk down the stairs. The ceiling is so high, they could add another floor. The room is alive with conversation and zest. Like New York, it feels like it never sleeps.

If you choose Rome, you are dining in a wine cellar and being served real Italian food by handsome men in leather aprons. The subtlety of the lighting is enhanced by warm candlelight. The room feels bare yet deep. You don’t even need to open the wine list to know that there is no shortage of luscious reds in this place.

I like the dining room’s moodiness.

I do not like the unisex washrooms.

I’m also not thrilled by the kitchen’s unpredictability. Some dishes are a knock out but a few are not worth your pennies.

Case in the point is the charcuterie (3 for $15/5 for $25) - too small, too dry and sliced too thin. House made preserves come in cute ramekins and complement your selections nicely but they can’t carry the weight on their own. If you want salumi, go see Grant.

The cheeses (3 for $17/5 for $27) are your better bet. They too come with darling preserves and when sharp gorgonzola and sweet fruit come together, it’s magic. Unctuous buffalo ricotta from Ontario and creamy Caprino from Lombardia also make for some great match ups.

Add the warm olives ($6) but skip the bread knots ($6). Don’t get me wrong, they are tasty little things with their tanned tops and shards of sea salt but are way too small to be a proper vehicle for the charcuterie. Try slathering creamy ricotta on something the size of a toonie; it ends up all over your fingers.

Also pass on the fried salt cod fritters ($7). I am a bit sad to say this as I love salted cod but these are dry, really dry. So dry that we ask for sauce but the flesh is too mealy and parched to be re-hydrated. My Calabrese nonna may be turning in her grave.

In the face of disappointment comes the sweetness of success. Enter the lambs’ brains alla saltimbocca($7). They look like two Cuban cigars; all rolled up in crispy prosciutto. The saltiness and crunchiness of the pork makes a nice back drop to the soft and juicy brains. The texture is almost indescribable – part cottage cheesy, part scrambled eggy and a little fatty. This is one of the most exciting dishes on the menu. It is fun, straight up fun.

The story goes on with gnocchi dressed up in an oxtail ragu with scamorza ($18). Made in house, these little pillows of potato and flour are spot on. The oxtail is moist and succulent but chunky instead of shredded and it’s nice to see something other than beef cheek. Scamorza’s smokiness goes a bit undetected but adds a nice dimension to the consistency of the sauce.

As if all this cheese was not enough we order the funghi pizza with gorgonzola and mascarpone ($18). Woodsy, wild mushrooms play really well with salty and sweet cheeses. The mascarpone so rich and smooth but balanced by the crunchy, leopard print crust. The pizza comes whole but with scissors for cutting it up however you wish (it is your story remember?).

Food aside, let's give bonus points for an innovative use of a pair of scissors, cloth napkins that are like tea towels (very Ital), funky silverware and exceptional service.

Now, Buca prints their menus daily and so you may not have the pleasure of brains or tails on your plates but whatever it is that day, choose wisely as this is truly a place for a great culinary adventure.

The Brunchcapades: Part Two

2010-03-16T16:38:00.008-04:00

Date: Saturday March 13, 2010

Time: 12:15 pm

Location: Lady Marmalade, 898 Queen Street East

Companion: Donna, administrative assistant/student/fashionista, friend of 5 years, prefers bacon over sausage

Weather: Piss-pouring rain. We jumped into Value Village thinking that they would sell umbrellas. They don’t.

Leslieville on the weekends can only mean one thing: breakfast. With more brunch spots than you can shake a stick at, the smell of eggs and roasted beans literally permeates the street corners. It’s weird but true.

Lady Marmalade has a kind of fifties retro vibe going on. A little bit cold but a lot bright. It’s small which helps add some cozy but with most of the seating being in the mid to front of the room you and your bacon are put on display like a puppy in a pet store. Line ups plus dirty looks if you don’t eat fast enough equals no time for lingering. This is commonplace in any Toronto brunch spot worth hitting and it sucks.

They have seven ‘bennies’ to choose from. Cool combos of avocado and brie or roasted veg and aged white cheddar are enticing but we went for the fresh tomato and pesto ($12.95). Crispy muffins were topped with a bright slice of tomato, a smear of fresh basil pesto, a fluffy poached egg and a light smattering of lemony hollandaise. Note the fact that it was light on the sauce which is key as I feel that places that douse your ‘benny’ with sauce are almost trying to hide something. Let’s also note that it was a cool yellow instead of the fluorescent goop you sometimes get.

With Lady’s poached egg BLT ($10.95), I expected a sandwich, the kind you pick up and open wide for but this one was served ‘open faced’. Although I think that ‘open faced’ sandwiches are ridiculous, it reminded me of a ‘benny’ so it was ok. Toasted brown bread, tender baby spinach, a sweet and smoky roasted tomato, salty bacon and big poached eggs with sunny centers and rubbery ends all come together to make a truly dimensional breakfast. The flavours worked really well together including the chipotle mayo that was gingerly spread on top of the eggs. God I love mayonnaise.

The only thing that was not ok was the placement of the bacon. It should have been laid on the bottom, not across the top because when I tried to start at the corner, my knife pushed down on the bacon which in turn pushed down on the egg breaking the yolk. I was not ready to break the yolk. I wanted the little bowl of salad off the plate but was now stuck with it as its’ bottom was covered in yolk.

See, I get that the salad puts the “unch” in brunch but I really don’t care to eat leaves with runny yolks especially for breakfast. In addition to a salad, you get potatoes. Boiled then baked table potatoes get some cayenne and a little oil. Some were burnt but their insides were fluffy.

Misplaced bacon and a few overcooked potatoes aside, Lady Marmalade is thriving. Lucky for those who live in the neighbourhood but not too far to go for those of us that don’t. The good thing about Toronto is that we are a small big city and nothing is more than half an hour away.

2010-02-21T12:23:00.008-05:00

My Place: A Canadian Pub, 2448 Bloor Street West

So I had been dying to try this place ever since it opened in September. Now, I wish I hadn't have consumed the calories. I hate to say this because Chef Brad Long seems like a good fella but it was really not so good.

I had a bad feeling as soon as I sat and was handed a dirty, crusty menu.

He gets props for creating a "Canadian" experience. He uses local where possible. The menu is sort of like a trip cross country. There are Nanaimo bars, bison ribs, Great Lakes Perch Po'boys, a tortiere and some mussels from P.E.I.

But...

His charcuterie plate was lifeless. I have seen more excitement at a funeral. Grainy, dry kielbassa, a square of bland pate, one piece of non-descript cheese, some pickled veg - who cares? No salumi. Except for the bright and crunchy beets this was colourless and boring.

The fries were a scavenger hunt as you had to pick through them to find the crispy ones. The others were soggy and really, can someone change the fryer oil? It was old and I'm not really down with brown fries.

He makes his own mayo which you'd think would be a big wow but oh no it tasted like its' texture. Zero flavour.

His pierogies were sad and soggy. They were mushy and they stuck to the board they came on. Sigh. More like dim sum than potato dumplings.

Honeyed buttermilk breaded chicken with sweet and sour red onions and avocado on bisquits were cute but seriously, no where was there even an essence of honey and the onions were just onions. Again, a bland one.

At that point I was seriously scratching my head and getting irritated.

The only winner and even that is a stretch as we are just giving points for something tasting like something, were the pulled Berkshire pork sliders. The challah was toasty, the pork nice and wet and the dressing sweet.

To make matters even worse this place is expensive. Bacon and eggs are $15, fish and chips come in at $23 and nachos which our server said were small will cost you $18.

I'm sorry Brad but if Canada tastes like this, no wonder our tourism is failing.

The Brunchcapades: Part One

2010-02-16T15:43:00.012-05:00

As previously predicted, this year will be the year of the brunch and to fully embrace the trend I have added the word brunching to my vocabulary and am now embarking on a year’s worth of brunches. Affectionately titled ‘The Brunchcapades’, myself and a rotating roster of brunch companions will set out once a month to check out one of Toronto’s many brunch spots. So please join me in this adventure as I get ready to rise and dine.

Date: Saturday February 13, 2010

Time: 11:45 am

Location: Easy Restaurant, 1645 Queen Street West at Roncesvalles

Companion: Annette, teacher, friend of 11 years, likes her eggs ‘sunny side up’

Topic of conversation: bridesmaid dresses (we are both M.O.H’s this year), how we are going to spend our Saturday night, my new BlackBerry and general gossip about our mutual friends

I’m a brunch virgin. Other than a few buffets and a delicious visit to the old Mildred Pierce, I have never really been a bruncher. Truth be told, it’s because I generally have never risen let alone gotten dressed and been out the door before noon on the weekends. A bar virgin, I am not.

So I entered Easy Restaurant kind of bright eyed and bushy tailed. A little wet behind the ears with an excitement in my belly. I also had high hopes that my first brunch would be a hit. No one wants to start off on the wrong foot.

Well a hit it was.

Easy’s decor has an ‘easy rider’ biker/vintage car theme. The tables are distressed and the papers are free. A chalkboard menu proudly lists their smoothies and coffees (they serve illy coffee – need I say more?) The waitresses are all young and cute and nice, really nice. The place is jumping and it woke me up.

The menu is big and with so many good sounding items I go for the eggs benedict ($10.95) almost by default. I know I sound like a dud for ordering the ``benny`` when I could have had toast soldiers or a breakfast burrito but I think as simple as it is it`s a dish that can really speak to a kitchen`s capabilities. Hey if you can`t poach a proper egg...

I cautiously approached the dish not knowing where to begin or when to break the yolk. Like a little kid that shrieks as they squish a bug under their foot, I think it`s the fun part of eating an egg.

PS. I also don`t mind killing bugs.

The eggs were perfectly poached; light and fluffy with sunny centers. The muffins were rightly toasted. The use of grilled peameal over ham added a rustic classiness to the dish and the fact that their hollandaise tasted of buttery popcorn added an element of surprise. The hash browns took a back seat as they were crispy but not so flavourful. Nothing some salt and ketchup couldn't remedy.

Easy’s house specialty is heuvos divorciados ($12.50): two sunny side up eggs (of course Annette ordered this) sit on a flat corn tortilla and then get smothered with spicy green and tangy red salsas. Black beans are sprinkled about while guacamole and ancho chili jam hang out on the side. I was jealous of this one. It was so colourful. The flavours popped in your mouth and ancho chili kicks raspberry’s ass in the jam department. Thick pieces of buttery toast make the perfect dipping agent. She ordered the salad because I had the potatoes but it didn’t take long for her to start devouring it. According to her she needed, “...to get this salad out of here so I can concentrate on all of this other goodness”.

I laughed.

We finished our illy’s and set out for some antiquing because we’ve heard that that’s what people do after they have brunch.

A vintage 80’s clutch and a faux gold necklace later, our adventure was complete.

Now Annette just has to save up for that chandelier.

Hello 2010

2010-01-12T01:40:00.009-05:00

I am always filled with such hope in January. Being the sappy gal that I am, I can never help but feel like the new year is going to be "the one". The great one. The best one yet.

Two thousand and nine was in many ways a good year for me. I started ritaboutit.com, quit the only “real” job that I sort of had (it was part time) to focus on food and on writing and had some small but successful firsts in the kitchen: roasted my first prime rib to an intentional medium rare, seared and baked my first duck breast and tried my own hand at roasting bones for the purpose of the marrow. Ok, so that one wasn’t so successful but when Grant van Gameren of The Black Hoof comments and gives you suggestion on your marrow tweet, you most certainly feel like you have accomplished greatness.

The year saw the rise of the prix fixe, the charcuterie trend, sriracha became almost as ubiquitous as Heinz (well not really but almost everyone now knows what that stuff is), Fuzion flew off of the LCBO’s shelves, as did Bud Light Lime but really, how many of those can you drink? 2009 was the year of the yogurt, the pork and of the Ramen noodle. Confit could easily be the cooking method of the year and I was happy about that. In addition to the obvious duck leg I was served hearts, garlic and potatoes that had all been slow cooked in luscious duck fat. The term local replaced 2008’s organic and people all over Toronto were engaging in DIYers based on proximity. Roof top gardens and restaurant cantinas helped us get a real taste of Ontario - of home.

Yes, we saw the closure of some popular restaurants but that’s ok. That’s the industry and I guess they were no longer in the “in”. Restaurants grow up and they too must die. Where one exits another enters. It’s life. It only means we’ll get to try some new food.

So what will 2010 have in store? I have honestly been thinking about this since November and haven’t come up with much. Like being able to predict lottery numbers, if I knew what was to come, I would capitalize on it and make this the year that Rita Ricchio becomes rich.

Like any foodster though, I would be doing myself and you, my readers, a disservice for not trying to call out the up and coming trends so here it goes...

I say that brunch will be even bigger than it has been. We will see new brunch items and our vocabulary will include the term brunching, verb; the act of going out for a meal between the hours of 11:00 am and 3:00 pm on a Saturday or Sunday.

We will also see the rise of a particular ethnic food. Perhaps a specific country or maybe a region but either way you are going to see people opening up their minds and letting different flavours and ingredients in. Ethiopian? Austrian? American mid-western? Turkish? Estonian? Time will tell.

Unfortunately, I think prepared meals are going to be an even bigger business as people get busier and busier (insert a “whatever”). The major grocery stores are going to come out with new and improved dinners that you get pick up, reheat and serve. You are going to be able to swing by Sobey’s and bring home some Bulgogi and kimchi. I’d rather see a rise in home cooking but we do live in North America. Maybe in 2011, people will start to realize the physical and emotional benefits of making your own dinner – from scratch.

That’s all I got but whatever 2010 will bring, I am excited. I can’t wait to try it and to write about it. I look forward to hopefully being a compass in not just my own but in your food adventures as well.

Rita Ricchio

Union

2009-12-23T13:13:00.007-05:00

Teo Paul took a little sojourn in France, returned to Toronto and blogged for one year about the trials and tribulations of opening his restaurant, Union, 72 Ossington Avenue.

Thanks to torontolife.com (they published the blog) the guy had a following before he even opened Union’s doors.

There was anticipation, excitement and well wishing.

There have also been line ups, price increases, phone calls not returned and only late reservation times available.

Basically, you have not been able to shake a stick at this place.

We got in this past Friday at 9:30 pm and (insert sad face emoticon) in the words of Public Enemy, “don’t believe the hype”.

Paul is serving French cuisine but beyond a predominantly French wine list, an antique sink in the woman’s washroom and the term ‘Plat du Jour’, you have to really dig deep to feel France. I suppose we can grant merit for subtlety.

Baguettes? Nope. Jewish challah that is more like Wonder Bread than anything else is served with a rabbit terrine with clotted cream ($11). Oh, and it was seared – seared to the point of being burnt. Rabbit? It could have been tuna for all I know because it only tasted like eggs. It had the texture of a curdled quiche. Not even a fancy quiche. The kind of quiche you get in that box of fifty hors d’oeuvres at Costco.

It gets better; the apps are served on china. The kind your English Granny has stacked in the server. Oh and one of the plates had a big chip out of it. Classy.

The same Wonder Bread challah is served with the only winner of the night: the steak tartar ($14). I always get excited when eating something raw. It makes me feel naughty. A lump of uncooked ground meat can get gross without the aid of accoutrements and Paul makes the right choice. A crunchy petite gherkin gives a break from the soft flesh while a spicy sauce added some zing to the beef’s mellow flavour. Even the ubiquitous bread adds a nice dimension.

Perhaps Paul went to Belgium while in France because the second runner up: crispy frites smothered in garlic mayo would go better with a Stella Artois than a Cote Du Rhone.

The fries are served family style along with potatoes with yogurt and chives. You get your own veg but you share the family style frites and potatoes. I’m all for sharing but personalized sides would fare much better. Ribs and fries? Sure but what if I had have had the snapper? Unless it’s battered, fries would not have been appropriate.

The execution is dulled by an assumption of unimaginativeness.

Mains were literally hard to swallow. A tougher than tough elk prime rib ($33) had me fearful of choking as I chewed what was still in my mouth while the rest was half way down my throat. A seared scallop sits on top but seems misplaced; like they had one left over so they threw it in.

Sticky ribs ($21) that were not sticky at all. The sauce was as thin as water. They were leathery as well and let’s face it; if ribs do not fall off the bone then they are not good. The smoked pork belly that sat shyly in the corner of the dish was good. The fat rendered enough so as to erase any feelings of guilt and infused with enough smoke to make it seem like a real treat.

A weird looking veg lasagna ($16) with its’ green and red sauce and white chevre make you think of Italy. Hell I’ll even say you think of Christmas before you think of Paris.

It’s true, I rarely order dessert but in the case of Union, we were never offered.

When you start dinner at 9:30, I guess there is no time for sweets.

2009-12-02T15:56:00.007-05:00

Nama Sushi, 750 St. Clair West

So, someone (you know who you are) told me that Nama Sushi had the best spicy tuna rolls in the city. This same someone takes his food very seriously and I am slowly discovering that like Corey Mintz and Katia Sinopoli, he can be trusted.

Well, these rolls are 'off the chain'. They are actually spicy (we all know those impostor versions that promise spice but deliver orange mayo). They are pretty - wrapped in light pink rice paper like a sweet sixteen birthday present. Fresh tuna is gingerly mixed with tempura bits and an essence of scallion; delicately delicious.

Sam the sushi guy rolls with such grace. His attention to detail is apparent in every roll we ordered. He showcases the sweetness of shrimp and crab in his Boston rolls by gently mixing in a touch of mayo not drowning it which is the common practice. Red fish roe not only make the rolls pleasing to the eye but I love the way they pop in between your teeth. The crackle of roe with the softness of the crab is the perfect juxtaposition in your mouth.

The dynamite rolls also deliver. Shrimp tempura is rolled up in rice then in toasted sesame seeds. Something as simple as toasting the seeds really brings out their nuttiness and proves the creator's respect for his ingredients.

Nama's house salad is another home run. Not the creamy version that I prefer but I fell in love with the curly beet threads, carrots cut in fancy shapes, crisp lettuce and a wonderfully tangy dressing that is generous on the minced celery and ginger.

Sorry New Gen, you may be temporarily closed but I have forever jumped ship.

Mercatto

2009-11-25T14:31:00.005-05:00

Yes, I went out for Italian again. And yes, I ordered pizza. I do realize that I have spoken more about pizza than anything else on here but I love it and will make no apologies. Did I ever tell you I even eat it cold for breakfast?

This time, I paid Mercatto, 101 College Street, a visit. It was a decision that was fuelled by a past experience that involved a ‘terribly chintzy on the sausage’ orrechiette and an invitation to come back. It’s a long story and not mine to tell. You have to ask my Auntie Linda about that one.

This locale is one of three. A large and open room, it feels clean and industrial. The cleanliness is fresh and being the contemporary woman that I am, I like the modernity. The menu is typical: antipasto, pasta, pizza and a few mains. It is printed on what becomes your place mat which bugs me because it feels cheap.

We created our own platter of antipasto ($15 for 6 choices). Here is where the dichotomy in the kitchen begins. Wild mushrooms tossed in bread crumbs and Parmigiano were tender and earthy but why the bread crumbs? Roasted winter squash promised fried sage but instead was overcooked, mushy and sage free. Any antipasto combination is served with fried dough balls. A great way for the kitchen to use up extra pizza dough, they were nicely salted, crisp and a super fun accompaniment to the cheeses. Those were the only things on our platter that were made in house. OK, the cheese I understand but with so many, and I mean so many, Toronto chefs trying their hand at curing their own salumi, outsourcing it is just boring. I too, can go buy my own.

The pasta del giorno was spaghetti aglio olio with breadcrumbs, anchovy and squid ($16). All those extra crumbs in the mushrooms should have been tossed with the spaghetti. It was too light on the crumbs, too stingy with the anchovies and that poor pasta was overcooked to the point of resembling soft Ramen noodles.

The pendulum swings as the bucatini all’amatriciana with guanciale and pecorino ($14) was perfection. The el dente noodles, the bright and lush tomato sauce and the velvety strands of bacon helped save this meal.

And finally, the pizza: a quattro stagione ($15). It was as though someone had told the kitchen exactly how I like it – a thin and well done crust, a generous amount of stringy and slightly browned cheese, little button mushrooms, salty but pitted olives, marinated artichokes and slices, not pieces, of soft luscious prosciutto. This pizza had my name all over it.

Mercatto is clearly one of those restaurants where some dishes are great and others not so much. You have to tread carefully here; there is a very thin line between a good meal and a mediocre one.

Cafe Nervosa

2009-11-07T12:10:00.001-05:00

There are a few things that Cafe Nervosa, 75 Yorkville Avenue has going for it: the upstairs is a cozy haven for a romantic dinner complete with a fireplace, they have an extremely drinkable Ironstone Cab by the glass, they make a damn good hot chocolate and the service is more than competent.

There is only one thing that is not working but unfortunately it’s the food.

The Caesar salad ($8.99) arrives and I pick up my knife. The leaves are whole and I think the only knife that should slide through lettuce is the chef’s knife in the kitchen. I hate having to cut my salad. It’s done up in a egg free dressing which has a little bit of bite but without giving me garlic breath for the rest of the night. Crispy pancetta bits and fried capers finish it off but I’m wondering where in the hell is the cheese? And who burned the capers?

Their house salad ($6.99) is typical. Typically boring. It’s the standard mix of spring that I am so over. Here’s another shocker – it had a balsamic vinaigrette. If I had a toonie for every restaurant in Toronto that serves this salad, I’d be, well you know how it goes. To add insult to injury, it was so gingerly dressed, it was dry.

A prosciutto and arugula pizza ($15.99) is another predictable item but this one comes with an element of surprise – it’s assembled backwards. Instead of the arugula being on top, being able to mingle with the shards of Parmigiano, it is lying in a soggy mess on top of the sauce and underneath the meat. The prosciutto falling off with every bite as it had nothing to stick to.

The worst is yet to come.

I exercised the option of gluten free pasta and I put the white rice noodles with the would be Garganelli: Berkshire pork sausage, rapini, roasted peppers, pecorino in a light tomato sauce ($16.99).

All parts were challenged. First off the sauce is anything but light. It is heavy. It is thick. It practically gave me acid reflux. I have had spaghetti sauce from a jar that was less tangy. The sausage was strangely sweet and the chunks not rendered of their fat. The rapini was aggressively bit-ter. When cooked correctly with a generous amount of salt, rapini promptly loses any trace of the bitterness that it commands when raw. Like the burnt capers, someone had carelessly cooked the rapini. Like the missing cheese in the Caesar, the roasted peppers were M.I.A. Perhaps roasted into oblivion?

Slices of pecorino are sitting on top in a warm, sweaty pile. No one wants congealed cheese.

With corn being the more viable option, I am not jazzed about the decision to serve rice pasta as the alternative, however, the big let down is in the execution. It is overcooked to the point of breakage and I am feeling like a two year old whose mother just cut up my spaghetti because I am too little to know how to twirl it with a spoon.

Rice pasta, more than the wheat variety, must be el dente and must be rinsed thoroughly in order to remove the starch that comes out of it when boiled. If not, you end up with pasta a la wall paper paste and for under $20 you too can get yourself a bowl.

Dessert? No thanks. I may not always know my boundaries but I know when to stop spending money on a dinner that’s just not worth it.

2009-10-18T01:06:00.006-04:00

Caplansky’s Delicatessen, 356 College Street

This deli is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Bagels and lox, chopped liver on challah, kishkas and knishes are all traditional Jewish fare that warrant Stars of David on the menu, however, it is the meat, the smoked ‘in house’ meat that is drawing crowds. So many crowds, that Zane Caplansky has run out of meat on several occasions. He is bringing back the deli, making tongue sammys cool again and it’s working.

Seven dollars will buy you a 7 ounce portion of smoked meat on rye, $10 will turn it into a combo with soup, salad or fries and $13 will equal a thirteen ounce sandwich (for the big burly people).

Like the sandwich, I’m going to give it to you straight:

These sandwiches are generous and so you must be hungry. Don’t worry about the terminology and order it “fatty” – it’s actually not that blubbery but rather juicy and chewy. The marbling of fat show up in little threads that make the meat is so moist, you need very little mustard. It is neither salty nor peppery but rather subtle in flavour – a plethora of spices coming together softly – not over bearing.

On your table you’ll find a caddy with every mustard imaginable – yellow, grainy, hot, honey. At first I liked the options but really, it’s a distraction. You want to try them all and it turns into a mustard tasting.

The coleslaw was dressed in a vinaigrette (insert sad face as I only get happy over creamy ones) and it was bland. Carrot and cabbage are classic but the Colonel’s fluorescent green one packs way more punch.

The pickle plate ($4) was a nice addition to our sandwiches as it provided some crunch when I slipped one or two peppers in between the meat and the bread. The pickle that comes with the sandwich is a quarter of a pickle so no deals trying to squeeze that one in.

Zane was there and it’s always nice to see the proprietor taking action. He sat us, he talked to us, he caught me taking pictures of his food. We even laughed a couple of times.

You can tell he’s pretty cool.

Sorry for lying about being a blogger.

The Valley Inn

2009-09-30T13:20:00.008-04:00

In keeping with the weather program of summer 2009, The Niagara Grape and Wine Festival was, for us, a big wet mess. This past Saturday, I found myself in Montebello Park, St.Catharines gripping an umbrella in the freezing Fall atmosphere, clumsily attempting to sample local wines without diluting the wine with rain water. After about half an hour, puddles were starting to come together and this was my cue to exit. Consequently, I couldn't even finish my coins, which – if you have been to Grape and Wine – you know this is unthinkable.

The rest of the afternoon was spent in dive bars snacking on mozzarella triangles and drinking beer.

This is not how the weekend is supposed to go.

Enter The Valley Inn, 93 Arthur Street in the lakeside town of St. Catharine’s. To my companions and I, it was the day saver, the piece de resistance, the light at the end of the tunnel. We walked and I couldn't help but smile. It may be 2009, but it’s still 1988 at The Valley Inn. The small bungalow style eatery featured two dining rooms and a small oak bar with brass trim and stain glass decor, not unlike something you'd see in your childhood memories of Nono's basement. This dimly lit space produced the kind of atmosphere that makes you feel warm, fuzzy, perhaps ready for a glass of red wine. Red table cloths with matching napkins, butter cups, chilli pepper and cheese shakers, “leather” bound menus, banquet style glass ware, we all remember these types of 'nice' places. Although I may normally turn up my nose at such an establishment, it has kitsch, it has history and I embraced it.

The menu is homely, but comfortable. No confusing ingredients, no ‘hard to say’ words, only the simple Italian fare that made the cuisine a favourite a few decades ago.

To start, the baked goat cheese salad ($8.95) had a huge disk of the warm and creamy cheese on top of romaine, radicchio and endive and was drizzled with a honey Dijon vinaigrette. The sweetness of the dressing served the sharpness of the cheese without a glitch.

The Valley Inn offers a humble selection of starters, but unless we are in Sweden, I’m not entirely sure as to how one selects meatballs ($5.95) as an appetizer. The bruschetta ($5.95) made much more sense. Thick pieces of toasty white bread were smeared with tomato sauce and topped with fresh tomato, basil and a light dusting of Parmigiano cheese. The sweet tang of the sauce was a nice juxtaposition to the subtle taste of fresh tomato while the cheese brought in the salty component. It was both baked and served in a skillet which served two purposes: it helped crisp up the bottom of the bread and added a nice presentation.

For the pasta, first choose your noodle (penne, fettuccine, spaghetti – no “new” pappardelle or orrechiette here) then you choose your sauce (cheese and butter, meat, meatballs, marinara, clam, Alfredo). This is the same order in which the kitchen prepares your dish. The chef boils the pasta then pours the sauce on top. It is a style of ordering and presenting that is very 80’s. Personally, I prefer the pasta be sautéed in the sauce before being served, but I can graciously forgive them for this sentimentality. For as old school as this restaurant is, the Village Inn receives big bonus points for offering something so very 2010 – gluten free pasta.

For $12.95, I get to dig into a big plate of corn pasta with their clam marinara sauce. I mix, I dig in, I add all the cheese I want (remember the shaker?) and I am thrilled. The sauce is light, requiring a bit more olive oil and salt, but like the bruschetta, the fresh taste of the tomatoes shine through. Loads of little clams dot the sauce with a slight fishiness that is characteristic of this dish.

Not a fan of seafood? Then, you can have any ‘Parmigiana’ you wish – eggplant, chicken or veal ($16.95). Like Donna, who is in the midst of a wildly emotional affair with chicken parm, I generally opt for the poulet version of this dish. She politely asks our server to sub a ceaser for the spaghetti (she does this every time) and is too content when the plate is dropped in front of her. A soft and tender chicken breast sits in a pool of sauce covered in a blanket of melted cheeses. The chicken is baked, not fried, but still manages to maintain it's juiciness. Not to be outdone by the meat, the side ceaser is served in a hearty wooden bowl and "amazing". The romaine lettuce is crisp and battered with the perfect amount of creamy garlic dressing. It is classic and tastes like the kind that old waiters in bow ties used to make table side at steak houses.

The service was accommodating and sweet. It is the kind of place where "the customer is always right".

The dessert options are like childhood favourites: parfaits, sundaes and spumoni ice cream. Again, the kitschiness is cute but full stomachs, an empty bottle of wine and the warm and fuzzies were making pajamas seem like a fantastic idea.

For me, the biggest indicator of a great meal is whether or not it is the first thing on my mind when I wake up the next morning. Like opening your eyes and imagining the face of the one you love, I wanted that pasta for breakfast.

2009-08-31T23:51:00.008-04:00

The Pho House, 5230 Dundas Street West

It is August 31 and with a high today of 22 degrees, I was cold and craving soup. Want to sit on patio? No thanks, give me a sweater and a bowl of something piping hot. Summer 2009 has been one of the worst on record for Toronto (that’s another story) but perhaps a very good time for a new Vietnamese restaurant in Etobicoke, The Pho House, located in the Six Points Plaza.

It is one of few Vietnamese restaurants in the area and the place has been busy. It is a typical Asian boite in that it is too bright and the music too soft. It is clean and sterile but in a nail salon kind of way. I wonder if the staff used to do nails because those shops are a dime a dozen in Etobicoke. It is non typical in that it is sort of chic and very modern and I kind of laugh at the banquet style table numbers that sit on stands as though we are at a wedding. I guess it eliminates confusion.

It is only appropriate that pho, that popular Viet rice noodle soup that no one knows how to pronounce is their specialty. They claim that their broth is the result of a “meticulous” twelve hour process that can only mean a unique and lively taste. There are seventeen varieties to choose from and although I am intrigued by the tripe and tendon, I stick with what I know – Pho Tai Bo Vien ($6.50 for a medium) also known as the rare beef and beef balls version.

It was loaded with perfectly cooked noodles and just the right amount of grease. Yes, grease – those thin little puddles of oil that refuse to mix with the water base of a soup. I love an oily soup and almost always add it to my bowl. Here, it is the right ratio. The beef was tender but the beef balls were too dense. They were like little balls of wooden meat. The sprouts and Thai basil were fresh but there was no mint. It was missing fresh mint.

The good news is that the broth is tastier than the dish water that some places are serving. The bad news is that it is exactly the kind of broth that the good places make. Unfortunately for pho, it has a myriad of ingredients that must go into it therefore there is little room for interpretation or change.

The cold shrimp rolls ($5 for two) make a nice accompaniment to the hot soup. Fresh shrimp, vermicelli, lettuce and grilled pork are all neatly tucked into a bed of rice paper. I quickly think that they, along with a cup of green tea, would make an excellent 3 pm snack.

Although the soup is typical, The Pho House is a nice addition to the growing ethnic food scene in southern Etobicoke. It deserves a place, pho sure.

Osteria Ciceri e Tria

2009-07-26T23:52:00.000-04:00

“Um excuse me, can I have some cheese?”

“Oh, (shaking head) we don’t believe in cheese with seafood.”

The last time I looked in the mirror I saw a grown woman staring back at me - a woman that likes to decide how she eats. I made the decision that the spaghetti with braised octopus needed some cheese and didn’t need to be told otherwise. We all know that at Terroni, substitutions and sliced pizza are out of the question but at least they gladly hand over the Grana Padano when requested. Osteria Ciceri e Tria, Terroni’s baby sister on Victoria Street, tries to take a little too much control.

An osteria is a tavern where the l’oste (host) decides what antipasti the patrons will snack on. Their menu changes daily and I like the element of surprise but let’s relax a little. If I want to dip anchovies in chocolate milk then that should be my prerogative.

Now for those of you that have been following my blog you will remember two things: I am in love with Terroni and I hate waitresses in baby tee’s that don’t wear bras. Well, the pasta at Osteria Ciceri e Tria is sadly nowhere near as good as it is at Terroni and the staff doesn’t believe in undergarments.

I’m not going to dwell on the three strikes though because although the handmade pastas are doughy and dull, their parade of five colourful antipasti ($15) have enough weight to push the experience from not good to good.

A grilled shrimp on a fava bean puree had everyone awing over how perfectly it was cooked – a little crispy and a lot shrimpy. The puree was as luscious as velvet.

Cantaloupe with prosciutto requires zero imagination but it is a classic Italian partnership and I’ll take it every time.

The friseddha (whole wheat rusk with eggplant, cherry tomato and ricotta salata) was a homey addition to the line up. Its’ flavours were subtly married as it hung out it in its’ little bowl.

A potato and octopus cake was actually a salad. The gelatinous bread crumbs were I’m sure what made someone call it a cake. The octopus was perfectly cooked but the dish was under seasoned. I would’ve preferred the addition of something briny like black olives.

Where are the salt shakers?

The star was the spelt and lentil salad with cured tuna. It had all the makings of a perfect salad: colour, texture, flavour. The little bits of carrot added a slight crunch and the oily tuna melted in my mouth. A big bowl of it would make an ideal lunch.

We added the night’s board ($16) and a grilled sausage with smoked scamorza ($15) for some extra dimension. The sausage was a sausage but the scamorza was a gently fried disk of goodness. It's rubbery texture was exactly what I crave in a cheese. Robiolo, Pecorino, fresh figs, favas and apricots, more prosciutto and a buffalo milk ricotta crostini all made the wine flow easier and more quickly.

The room was packed. It felt alive in a way that the restaurants are in Italy. We ate with gusto and drank with little caution. The encounter was satisfying.

I recommend that you go, choose a bottle from their inexpensive wine list and just snack on the antipasti – at least that way you’ll get some cheese.

2009-07-09T16:00:00.002-04:00

The Mexican Post, 5165 Dixie Road, Unit 3

My taco adventures came to a screeching halt when I had dinner here - one of Mississauga's only Mexican restaurants. First off, this is Tex Mex. It is burritos, enchiladas, jalapeno poppers, "Mexican" rice and lots of melted marble cheese.

Things were off to a bad start when the complimentary chips and salsa arrived. The corn chips were neither warm nor house made and the salsa was pureed.

I chose the taco and enchilada combo ($9.99). Old El Paso type taco shells are stuffed with a few strips of char-grilled chicken, some grated orange and white cheese and then placed under the salamander until the shells begin to burn. They were dry and sort of desperate so I tried to revive them by dousing them in green Tabasco. It kind of worked.

The enchiladas were the tacos reincarnated. This time shredded beef was rolled up in a soft tortilla with a blanket of the same cheese melted over top. The beef had more life - its' stringy texture had a faint bit of jus still hanging on. Having been rescued by twice the amount of cheese, it didn't require as much sauce.

The combo was served with old, dark yellow, crunchy rice and refried beans that were so thick and pasty that when I tipped the bowl upside down, nothing happened. I know I shouldn't play with my food but we got a good laugh out of it.

To add insult to injury, the service was inept. We were seated in the bar area (not by choice) next to a big blue tarp that concealed "renovations". All the while, Mexican music competed with the baseball game that was on tv.

The place was dead.

Shocker.

A Meaty Vacation

2009-07-05T14:36:00.003-04:00

The drive from Edmonton to Banff can be summed up in one word: beef. Ok, make that two words: Alberta beef. The provinces’ range, farmland and climate make an ideal combination for raising cattle. It is a business that provides Canadians with sixty percent of our beef supply. They take their cows seriously and with just cause – Alberta is home to more cattle than humans. Sounds crazy but there are approximately 3 million people and just over 5 million cattle.

Until getting past Calgary, the scene is virtually flat farmland. I have never seen so many cows in all my life: big ones, little ones, black, brown and white ones. I began to wonder if the legacy of Alberta beef came to be because it is a better product or if its’ popularity merely stemmed from the sheer number of cows?

I was going to have to do some tasting.

Stopping in Calgary for lunch, we hit one of the city’s most famous spots: Peter’s Drive-In, 219 – 16 Avenue NE . It’s been around since 1962 and serves thirty different flavours of milkshakes. They boast 100% Canadian grade “A” ground chuck burgers that are fresh, preservative free and topped with real Canadian cheddar. You have to applaud the patriotism. Their signature is a BBQ sauce that they slather the patty with. Besides the cheese and sauce, they are basic with the toppings. Here all you get is ketchup, relish and mustard. The burgers get points for still being tender and moist even though they are as thin as cardboard. However, if not for the tangy sweet sauce, would be almost tasteless. Where is the flavour?

In doubt, I was a starting to subscribe to the numbers theory.

That is, until Banff. With the majestic Rockies as a back drop, The Grizzly House, 207 Banff Avenue, a cabin style fondue restaurant is the perfect place for dinner. The complete four course meal starts with either French onion soup or salad, a cheese fondue with bread cubes as an appetizer, your choice of entree finishing with a Toblerone chocolate fondue for dessert. The “Alberta special” afforded me the opportunity to try some of the local animals: beef, buffalo, venison and elk. The waiter brings to the table a 600 degree hot rock on which to cook your treats and away you go. The flavour of the elf was understated and gentle while the buffalo meat popped in my mouth. The beef was juicy and finally gave me a little more flavour to go on. Venison is a little too gamey and dark for my liking but I never turn down the experience of eating home grown. Like eating seafood by the sea, my dinner tasted like the mountains.

The beefscapades didn’t end there. Back in Edmonton, I lunched at The Hat Resto and Bar, 10251 Jasper Avenue. The new Hat used to be an old Hat, The Silk Hat - an eighty year old diner. Having been recently renovated and revamped, the result is a dramatic, cool and trendy boite with an extensive burger menu that advertises Alberta beef. I went classic with a banquet type burger and fries. These patties are the real deal. They are thick (8 oz.), fresh, juicy, meaty and satisfying. Again, I ate Alberta.

More points for the case of a better quality product.

I loved the cutesy apps at Hundred Bar and Kitchen, 10009 – 101 A Avenue. The idea of snacking on truffle buttered popcorn while sipping a vodka seven delighted me. Cute lobster tacos and buffalo jerky made me even happier but the game was won when we feasted on filet mignon with truffle and peppercorn butter. Tenderloin can be virtually tasteless but not in this province. This piece of beef was not only luscious and velvety but bursting with juice. It had an earthy mouthfeel that is hard to imagine - rich and sort of soothing. Simply put, a filet unlike any other.

So the next time someone asks that old Wendy’s commercial question, “Where’s the beef?” you tell them it’s in Alberta.

Cowbell

2009-06-15T22:48:00.000-04:00

It is no secret that I love meat. I do not judge the vegetarian and vegans of this world; I just would never be one nor would I ever date one. I believe in the food chain but also support nose to tail dining and definitely feel a ton better when eating whole. Animals and humans are both meant to eat freely. I don’t want to consume hormones and chemicals any more than Dolly the cow does.

Enter Mark Cutrara, a leader in the local/organic movement in the Toronto restaurant scene. His restaurant Cowbell, 1564 Queen Street West, serves nothing that comes from beyond the borders of Ontario. Everything is organic. He bakes his own bread and churns his own butter. House made salumi hang in his basement and veggies grow in his roof top garden. He probably has a pet duck and if God would allow he would be making his own cows. Cutrara may be a carnivore but has no less respect for the animal as a vegan does.

I have been trying to get to Cowbell since its’ opening almost two years ago. Although I hit my head on the bell on my way in, I entered smiling. It is a welcoming spot. Smallish with only thirty seats but it still manages to feel fresh and open. Rustic banquettes paired with sturdy wood chairs and big wooden tables make you feel as though you are dining at a farm house (a chic farm house). It flows and you immediately get the sense that someone had a plan.

The menu changes based on what is fresh and available. It is June and what is in season is asparagus. The stalks were cut into discs and simply tossed in lemon and olive oil with tangy goat cheese. The big deal was the crispness of the veg and the freshness of the cheese. A lovely start.

A constant on Cutrara’s card are the soiled reputation greens ($8). Named after its’ supplier it is an interesting mix that, barely dressed, was bursting with earthy flavours. I tasted pepper but there was no arugula. I tasted spice, was there horseradish? I will admit to not knowing what I was eating but you know, I find pleasure in little culinary mysteries.

Another win was the duck and boar terrine ($13). A terrine is a terrine and I love them but how often do you see the gherkins and onions inside the pate instead of alongside it? I wager never but am glad Cutrara took on the practice. Although the meat bordered on bland, it was super fun.

The charcuterie ($16) was another experiment in amusement. Elk, venison, duck, boar, bison and pig are just some of the animals that make an appearance here. All taste as though the animals live in the back alley but are served a little too ‘at room temperature’ and the result was some sweaty cold cuts. Bring the temp down, add a little more mustard and we’re laughing.

Mains include a fish option but last time I checked the restaurant was named cowbell not fish tank. Huron pickerel sat on mushroom risotto with ramp pesto and sea asparagus($25). It was a nice option for the non meat eaters but if you fall into that category, may I suggest a different restaurant? The risotto missed the mark – it was oily and wet instead of rich and creamy.

Rachel, our darling server, had built a solid reputation with me and so when she suggested the Muscovy duck confit ($30), I didn’t question it.

It was everything you’d expect from a duck leg that has bathed in its’ own fat for hours – moist, stringy meat clinging safely to a crispy and flavourful skin. A lack of grease made me feel good about eating it. Sliced almonds took the crunch factor to the next level and although the green beans were dehydrated they tasted like butter and that’s never a bad thing.

The Red Angus steak and tortiere ($30) was a true testament to the kitchen’s talents. The steak was rare but forcing it to rest meant that not a drop of blood dirtied the plate. The Quebec style tortiere with its’ sweetly seasoned beef and buttery pastry had a candied flavour that made me feel like a kid again.

Some Ontarians have never had an Ontarian meal. Many of us may have never tasted organic meat or produce. We eat tomatoes from Mexico and fish from Vietnam while we have our own farms, our own green houses and our own lakes. If you want to know what home tastes like then head to Cowbell. You are guaranteed to have an unpretentious meal that was made with heart.

2009-05-11T17:39:00.001-04:00

Mexitaco, 828 Bloor Street West

My new found love of Mexican has sparked a mission to find the best taquerias in Toronto. I am staying true to El Trompo for their Tacos Al Pastor but Mexitaco's nachos (pictured above) take the gold. Salsa, cheese, jalapenos, cilantro, onions, sour cream and house made chips make for some of the most fresh and colourful nachos I have ever seen.

Stay tuned for more adventures in tacos...

Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, 9 Church Street

The menu changes twice daily because everything is as fresh and as local as possible. A recent visit had us perched at the chef's table and dining on pork hocks, beef cheeks, braised rabbit and their house made chorizo. The food, with the exception of their poutine (strange as this is what they are often praised for) was spot on. Even the wine pairings that our server suggested were unforgettable. Thanks Chef James for a wonderful night.

Julie's Cuban Restaurant, 202 Dovercourt Road

The sign out front says Julie's Snack Bar but that's only because it is the original sign from when the space was just that - a small hangout that had snacks and a Pac Man video machine. Now, she calls herself a restaurant, a Cuban restaurant.

I've been to Cuba twice and I still have no strong idea as to what Cuban cuisine is. I ask around and no one else seems to know either. Rice, beans and corn are the popular responses. Sadly, I think even Julie is confused. Our tapas dinner started with guacamole and chips. The guac was great, the chips were Tostitos - maybe someone from the Mexitaco camp could show them how to make their own? We went on to sample coconut shrimps, peppery corn fritters and a jumbo potato puff filled with ground meat that was like a ball of shepard's pie. A not so limey key lime pie finished things off. It was a mix of Louisiana, Florida, Mexico and Cuba all rolled into one.

Focus Julie, focus.

Nota Bene

2009-05-05T16:58:00.000-04:00

Our dinner at Nota Bene, 180 Queen Street West, was alright but alright at one of "Canada's Best New Restaurants" is ludicrous. Maybe Toronto Life Magazine had set my expectations too high but fishy fish and bloody birds can hardly been viewed as "Best". If that was their best, I'd hate to see their worst.

The good was a Boston bibb salad with shavings of Parmigiano dressed in a Champagne vinaigrette ($12) that was on key. The dressing caressed the picture perfect greens making it exactly how a salad should be - light and fresh.

The bad was the rest.

Florida soft shell crab ($16) was fishy and we all know that fish and seafood should never taste or smell fishy. It's legs were crispy but it's body was water logged. Tartar sauce? Get out your magnifying glass because all you're going to see is a smear of it hiding under a couple of lettuce leaves.

Braised beef short ribs ($24) were stringy but tender. They were dropped on another smear - this time is was a parsnip puree. The ribs got a sprinkling of jus. I say sprinkling because there was so little sauce that it was gone half way through and all I was left with was a dry rib. It was either ask for more sauce or stop eating. I stopped. The accompanying salad - greens, cucumber, cornichon and pickled horseradish was so full of vinegar that it made my tongue scream.

Roasted rock cornish hen ($24) was dumped onto smashed potatoes making it a visually unappealing dish. The poor hen was spread eagle. Let me take this opportunity to add that this was not the only dish that was poorly presented. The crab was served in an awkward bowl with too high edges. The French style onion rings ($8) were piled so high that the top of the tower crumbled when the waiter placed them down resulting in an oniony mess that he proceeded to clean up with his hands. He was rightfully embarrassed. And why did the short rib have two carrots across the top of it? It was stupid.

Back to the hen. The meat was nicely infused with thyme but way over salted and some parts were underdone. Birds do not look good in pink.

In other news, the dining room is sort of plain and too bright to be romantic. It feels like a big square. The service is efficient but like the decor, it is plain. Servers are like robots in bad uniforms. Who designed those?

Besides the unchangeables, perhaps it was an off night but nonetheless I left questioning the praise and sighed as I walked out the door - just another misguided meal.

Adventures In World Cuisine: A spotlight on El Trompo

2009-04-23T18:29:00.001-04:00

Different cultures and their cuisines have always intrigued me. I respect them and think of foreign foods as an adventure. How boring to only ever eat what we know or what is familiar. How exciting to see and taste how different cuisines can take a common ingredient like chicken and dress it up in so many different costumes.

Ok, so I admit to not ordering the beef heart at Foxley last week but I just didn’t feel like it. After last week’s lunch in Korea Town, I was feeling a little apprehensive.

I know next to nothing about Korean food so I took a trip down to Christie and Bloor for some research. I was out of place and out of sorts. I was just glad that the menu had pictures. I ordered bi bim bap only because it is one of the few dishes I have heard of. Four mystery dishes were served as sides. I could identify two as kimchi but one was some sort of grey jello that had been cut into rectangles. It was sprinkled with seeds and jiggling. It tasted like nothing. Even the bi bim bap was weird. It was cold (I guess I should’ve ordered the one in the hot pot?) and the vegetables had some sort of invisible dressing on them. The only part I recognized was the sriracha. I think I need to go back with a Korean friend but I don’t have any.

I will also admit to not knowing much about Mexican food. I don’t like it – never have. Even in Acapulco, I stuck to a diet of hamburgers and French fries (I was 22 and naive). I have a strong dislike for flour tortillas which, so I thought, ruled out a lot of dishes. I also hate green peppers and think that refried beans look like cat food. I do like corn, cheese, meat, avocados, tomatoes and margaritas so I decided to give Mexican another chance.

Two fellow food writers suggested El Trompo, 277 Augusta Avenue. They can be trusted.

It’s a small and friendly place and I like that the dominant language is Spanish. I don’t like that everything is served on or in plastic.

I ordered a Corona (when in Rome...) and again was feeling content with a menu that has some pictures. Playing it safe, I started with their nachos ($3.99). The corn chips were efficient but not as fresh as the pico de gallo that covered them. You could tell it had been made with love. It was loaded with garlic and onions and had a nice tang. The refried beans were actually not gross. They were subtly smeared on the chips with the cheese, instead of dumped on top.

Tacos al pastor ($9.75) are listed as their specialty. These are Mexico City style and the soft corn tacos are filled with marinated pork, onions, pineapple and coriander. A squirt of lime, a drizzle of salsa verde and I was off. The shredded meat was tender and flavourful. Every bite seemed to release a smoky juiciness. The coriander was chopped into the finest of threads so as to lift the pork not over power it. Sometimes I don’t mind coriander; other times I almost hate it. I find it has a soapy taste but not here. The flavours, including the sweetness from the pineapple bits, are balanced.

Even the tacos themselves were impressive. Unlike the flour variety, they were not doughy. They were dense but fluffy – like sturdy little pancakes.

This taqueria has all the fixings needed for a Mexican feast: huevos rancheros for brunch, margaritas to be savoured on the patio and if you want to make your own they sell authentic chorizo for $18/kg.

A colourful place within a colourful neighbourhood.

* The name of the Korean restaurant has been withheld to be fair. I did not like it but it may have more to do with my ignorance of the cuisine than the place it came from.

Mildred's Temple Kitchen

2009-04-14T16:08:00.000-04:00

I used to frequent Mildred number one and like half the city, was disappointed when they closed. After visiting the number two – Mildred’s Temple Kitchen, 85 Hanna Avenue, Suite 104, I remain somewhat disappointed. I know, I should not be harbouring sentiments of the restaurant past nor should I be comparing every detail between the original and the sequel but it is after all, the same place – reincarnated. The Mildred Pierce Group may not subscribe to that notion but when you go by a similar name, open up across the tracks, put two of your old dishes on your new dinner menu and practically repeat the brunch card, it is hard not to compare.

The old space was warm and dramatic. The new is cold, sparse and rather hospital like (in a clean way). It almost seems unfinished. The old had an air of sophistication that the new lacks. Mature servers have been replaced by “handsome” twenty somethings in Levis. The hostess looked like she was thirteen and was dressed like a circus performer. Boy George called and wants his hat back. Mildred, they too need a uniform.

The menu is short and to the point. I like its’ no nonsense approach and more than a few dishes caught my attention. To start, a citrus squid salad with red onion, cucumber and apple ($9). It was a nice twist on a tired classic and GreekTown should be taking notes. The tender squid was spritzed with citrus and laid on top of a bed of extra thick and creamy tzatziki. The apple really only added a tartness that wasn’t pleasant. I ignored it and pretended that it was summer and I was dining on a patio. Mildred doesn’t have one which is too bad because this dish is dying to be served al fresco.

Even better were the smoked Georgian Bay whitefish fritters ($11). The fritter trend of 2008 is still going and although these were served very much in the same way as every other restaurant i.e. with a remoulade of tangy bits, these ones were the most able I have seen. The ratio of fish to potato was bang on. They were dressed up in a batter akin to the chicken ball. It was airy and crispy not doughy or crummy.

A beet salad with goat cheese ($9) was so pretty that no one wanted to touch it. The pureed cheese danced swirls through the dressing. The fresh beets were a beautiful shade of orange. Again, summer can’t come fast enough.

As fabulous as the starters were, the mains were full of mistakes. A chickpea and lentil stew ($16) was healthy and bright but lukewarm and lacking a ‘stewed quality’. It seemed to have been made in five minutes instead of the hours that it should have simmered. It had too much cilantro, not enough goats’ milk yogurt and the bhaji that came on the side was nothing but a clumsy addition.

A burger and frites ($15) looked like it belonged in a magazine. Sweet red onion relish, white cheddar and a tiny pickle finished it off. Someone decided to put it on an egg washed brioche bun that crumbled after two bites. It was simply the wrong kind of bread for a thick and juicy burger.

Another mishap was the pork belly sous vide with potato dumplings ($26). I love pork belly. When it is fried its’ crispiness is heaven. Its’ pig flavour out shines even the best bacon. However, when you do anything but fry it, it is nothing more than pork with large amounts of fat stuck to it. Rendering it gives it that crunch, sous vide makes it almost too unhealthy to want to eat.

The meal ended with a watery rendition of the cappuccino and a trio of way too sour sorbet ($9). The strings of sugar were playful but the grapefruit sorbet almost gave me wrinkles.

Mildred, if it wasn’t broke, why did you fix it?

Detoxing the Indetoxable

2009-04-03T17:23:00.000-04:00

After the gastronomic indulgence that was New York City, I returned to Toronto a lot squishier than when I had left. I joked about needing a detox. This is a big joke because between my love of red wine and my affection for cold cuts and cheese, I am the last candidate for sacrifice.

Well, you know the saying, 'be careful what you wish for'? It's true. The day after I came home, the mild sore throat that I had been nursing (running around New York City) turned for the worse. As I travelled further down the sick road, the fever got higher and higher and my tonsils whiter and whiter. My journey hit a high point when I spent nine hours in emergency.

I have been in a horizontal position for six days and have had a fever for five of those. Popping pills like candy and talking like the Godfather are two other of my symptoms. Am I hungry? Not really and thank god because I cannot eat. I have been living off bananas, baby food, apple sauce, soup (broth with soft noodles) and water.

What I am is skinnier and happy for it but after watching The Food Network for 122 hours, I cannot wait to go to a restaurant. Hell, I’ll even settle for the energy to make myself something that doesn’t come out of a jar. I feel some mac ‘n’ cheese coming on as soon as I can stand by a stove. It’s soft, I can do it.

As anyone that likes to eat can attest, we often overdo it on nights’ out, weekends and vacations. We get back to reality when we either step on a scale or realize that our jeans aren’t looking as good on us as they were pre-pig out. I knew I had over done it when the thought of just sitting in my jeans sent feelings of uncomfort through my abdomen.

I swore it was cut back time and I kind of did a bit of it until I was forced into starvation by my weakened immune system. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed the gluttony and will continue to indulge. It has afterall, become my panache for travelling.

Between The Shucks

2009-03-25T12:30:00.000-04:00

The second last time I had oysters was on a recent trip to Florida. It was a real oyster shack complete with hanging napkin dispensers, metal buckets for serving and the fastest shucker I have ever seen. You order them by the pound and when you are done with each shell you toss them in the trough at the edge of the bar. They are served with soda crackers, cocktail sauce and drawn butter. You can have them either steamed or raw, the latter not being the popular choice for Southerners. There is a big disclaimer on the menu highlighting the potential dangers of eating them raw and that the establishment is not responsible should you fall ill. I was confused. We eat them raw up in the North. And by the way, what’s with the crackers, where’s the crushed ice, fresh horseradish and Tabasco? Yes, they are cheaper but so was the experience.

So I decided to pay a visit to my favourite oyster joint, Big Daddy’s Crab Shack and Oyster Bar on King Street, to relive how we do it. It was happy hour and that week there was a Mardi Gras celebration. At “a buck a shuck” we got down to business. Twenty five oysters later, including a Kumomoto from Asia that was farmed in the West, I was happy.

Now, clearly an oyster is an oyster but what exactly are these molluscs all about? We eat them but know so little about them. I called upon Katie, a veteran server and shucker for some insight. She begins with the basics. The correct and most enjoyable way to eat an oyster is to chew then swallow. Most people just swallow and do not even taste it. She argues that this technique is, “simply a waste of money”. Unless you are in Orlando or it’s happy hour, these little treats are expensive. The Kumomoto was $3.50 for one. The steep pricing of oysters is why they are almost always presented in a thoughtful way i.e. on crushed ice or sea salt and why they are served with fancy sauces. No one would appreciate paying $18 for half a dozen and they bring them to you in a bucket.

She shucked another one for me and began pointing out the layers and the muscle of the oyster. The muscle is the centre and is what holds it together. Detaching it from one side of the shell with the knife is what kills it. Yes, it is alive right up until it is served.

They are either male or female but can change sex more than once in their life span. Some oysters die inside of their shell before they are opened and according to Katie, the smell is extremely rancid. She says that a bad oyster can only be likened to, “the smell of a big, nasty fart” and that your nose could find one even at the bottom of the pile. To help keep prevent them from dying, they should be lying cup side down in their own sea water. North American oysters all have one side (the half shell) that is more concave then the other. It is their bed and they need the salt water to stay alive.

I have to admit that part of the fun of eating oysters is dressing them. At Big Daddy’s they serve them with fresh lemon and horseradish, spiced infused vodka and a carousel of six different sauces ranging from gentle to very spicy. I mix and match, trying different combinations and feel proud when I make a good one. This time and for the first time, I tried one plain. It was the one Katie shucked for me and she made sure not to drain a drop of the water. It was like accidently swallowing salt water while swimming in the ocean. I will stick with the condiments.

Lombardi's Pizzeria, New York City

2009-03-23T23:11:00.000-04:00

I recently went to New York City and will admit that besides seeing The Statue of Liberty, I was really only interested in eating. I went with the intention of completing a few key food missions one of which was trying the pizza. Ok, not only did I want to try it, the plan was to eat as much of it as possible. I had only hoped that it would succeed its reputation.

We went to Lombardi’s Pizzeria on Spring Street in Little Italy. Established in 1905 by an Italian immigrant, it is said to be the first pizzeria in America. After 100 years, they are still coveted as one of the best pizzerias in the United States and the best in New York City. Now, New Yorkers put pizza into one of two categories: Neapolitan or Sicilian. The former being a thin crust and the latter being quite thick. Lombardi’s serves the Neapolitan style. Another note: they refer to the whole pizza as a pie.

Well, it was everything I had imagined. Chequered table cloths, New Yorker accents and original ingredients added to its’ authenticity. A “New York” style of pizza is with cheese and meatballs or with pasta baked into the top. Sounds weird, I know but I had to try it. We picked the meatball one. Baked in a coal oven, it came out well done and really thin. With a generous amount of good quality mozzarella, it was gooey and stringy. The meatballs (a mix of beef and pork) were perfectly seasoned and were solid, not the crumbly kind you sometimes see. Even the sauce which was born from San Marzano tomatoes was perfect. It balanced the acidity and the sweetness in such a way as to highlight the pizza not overpower it.

Lombardi's catapulted my pizza mission into high gear and over the next four days, I sampled two other pizzerias. The others were more takeout as opposed to sitdown but were nonetheless, right up there in deliciousness. I knew things were getting out of hand when I statred to wonder if I could bring some home on the plane. I thought of customs and although I once smuggled cheese from the Netherlands, I figured I should not temp fate twice.

Pizzeria Libretto

2009-03-23T23:00:00.000-04:00

I’m not going to lie, I absolutely love pizza. I like it thin crust and I eat it with a knife and fork. My preference is to have it well done to the point where the cheese kind of goes a bit brown and with some sort of Italian meat on it. Chicken on pizza? Never. Olives? Always. Oh yeah, and don’t forget the drizzle of a nice extra virgin olive oil. Fantastic.

Pizzeria Libretto, 221 Ossington Avenue, is definitely all about the pizza. Their wood burning oven from Naples turns them out in 90 seconds with a 900 degree temperature. They are thin and slightly burnt from the intense heat. They get points for offering a spelt crust (wheat and I are not big friends) and for creativity with the use of ingredients like duck confit.

Unfortunately, they lose points for so many other things.

My first visit started out with a mediocre bottle of Nero D’Avola while we sampled some antipasti. House made wild boar capicollo ($6) was intriguing yet disappointing. Number one – it was crazy chintzy with an offering of maybe four slices. Number two - having grown up in an Italian famiglia, I have seen my share of hanging, cured meats and this one didn’t resemble any type of capicollo I’ve ever feasted on. Rather wet and greasy, it resembled a pancetta more so than capicollo and it certainly didn’t taste like wild boar. C’mon, do they really have a cantina in the basement?

I chose to set up the pig with some Rochetta ($6), a sharp goat’s cheese – small piece again. Not worth six dollars. I liked the Heirloom tomato and Burrata cheese salad ($9). The cheese was as smooth as butter, the tomatoes reminded me of September and the understated dressing let those flavours and textures shine through.

A good old stand by for me is always a quattro stagione pizza (the four seasons) because sometimes I can’t decide between just a few ingredients. Libretto’s version ($15) disappoints.
The salami quarter (winter) was satisfactory as was the spring and summer portions. The artichokes were nice and the green olives were ok but I really just wanted to skip the fall and go right into the next year. This quarter is always mushrooms and I love mushrooms. I repeat, I love mushrooms. These ones were downright gross. They were grassy and earthy and not in a good way. They tasted like dirt because I don’t think they were soaked enough. I picked them off.

That was back in October so I decided to give them another go. Besides, they have conjured up some serious supporters so perhaps I missed something.

Well, after a second visit, I am still not impressed. What is everyone saying when they claim this is great pizza? I'm really confused.

My prosciutto and mozzarella pizza ($16) was at best, alright. It was so stingy on the cheese that it was more of a red pizza than anything else. The prosciutto tasted like a dead pig - I realize this sounds absurd and so what I mean is that the meat tasted old and expired. I don't know.

My date's sausage pizza with caramelized onions, mozzarella and chilli oil ($15) was better but forget it. Too much oil paired with too many oily onions just equalled a greasy mess. Tasty at first but when you got to the third piece, the stomach ache started to set in.

Libretto, I give up. Skip this place and go straight to Terroni.

Bite Me

2009-03-21T21:24:00.000-04:00

This past September, one of this city’s biggest Chefs – Marc Thuet, reopened the former Bistro & Bakery Thuet by the new name of Bite Me, 609 King Street West. Apparently the decision was fuelled by the apparent need for a slightly less expensive menu that would appeal to the 20 and 30 somethings that bombard this popular stretch of town. Don’t get too excited though, you’re still going to pay $12 for a Caeser salad and $39 for his Cassoulet.

A very open space, it is decorated tastefully. Gleaming hardwood, Buddha heads, paper like chandeliers that resemble hydrangeas and paintings done by Chef himself. Well, I have to sadly say that I liked his artwork more than his food.

Service is painfully slow and our waiter must be exhausted after every shift from how “on” he was the entire time. It was straight up annoying. Other irritations include: a ten minute wait for a martini that arrives with olives with pits (big pet peeve), freshly baked artisan style bread arrives with ‘hard as a rock’ cold butter (what?!), empty app plates take about fifteen minutes to clear and when two out of five entrees finally arrived (the butter was soft at this point), they get taken away because there was a “mistake”. They did reappear only two minutes later but with less food on the plate than the first time around. Part owner and Thuet’s wife, Biana came over to personally apologize which was gracious but after awhile her presence got overbearing. She is the front of house but you get tired of seeing her walk past your table a million times and you start to wish she’d go into the office or something.

Anyways, on to the actual food...

I started with what he calls Mosaic ($17). It was different types of carpaccio arranged on the plate to look like a mosaic art piece. It was beautiful. I could identify beef, salmon and red pepper but was stumped by the other slices. Either way, they were paper thin and drizzled with an almost water like dressing that tasted exactly like sushi. Yes, like a whole sushi plate amalgamated into water. It was fresh and thoughtful.

The winner in the first course department was clearly the Tartine ($15). It was a sort of open faced sandwich with Heirloom tomatoes, Sheep’s cheese and Prosciuttini atop a piece of bread that resembled a big, crunchy, greasy, garlicky crouton. It was wonderful.

I almost hated my main, Seabass ($28). It was stuffed with ground oxtail and served with a few mini vegetables and three escargot. I will take full responsibility for assuming it would be Chilean Seabass which is my favourite – yes I know we’re not supposed to eat it – but at that price point why would I assume that it was going to be more like a lake than a sea bass. It tasted like someone fished it out of Lake Simcoe. It had the texture and dryness of overdone salmon, the oxtail chuck was bland and dicey, the vegetables were cute as hell but the escargot tasted like dirt. Really, like dirt.

The Short Ribs ($28) which are supposedly cooked for 72 hours, definitely did not have that fall off the bone texture. You need a knife and Thuet needs a new watch. The Pomme Frites were good but we should hope so at this stage in cuisine.

I was so over it that I didn’t even look at the dessert menu.

Tout Fini.

The Yellow Griffin, reviewed for Single Men's Magazine

2009-03-10T16:08:00.000-04:00

The Yellow Griffin Pub, 2202 Bloor Street West, has the largest selection of burgers that I have ever seen. I’m talking about eight different kinds of patties (beef, bison, pork, lamb, turkey, chicken, salmon and veggie), thirty five different ways of serving them and add to that decision making – a choice of nine different sides. You seriously need about 15 minutes just to wrap your head around this massive menu. We were a little over whelmed but up for some serious burger consumption.

Three selections later, mouths watering over the anticipation of breaded pickles and a small debate over whether or not to go with a side of kraut-slaw or The Village Potato Salad (I won with the potato salad), we settled into the comfortableness of our booth and surveyed the joint. A small, kind of homey pub, it immediately made me think of a great spot for some Sunday festivities i.e. a greasy, “last night is a blur” kind of brunch. For this purpose, I am strangely intrigued by the ‘English Breakfast Burger’ ($11.15). Yup, a burger topped with baked beans, a little HP and a fried egg – rise and shine.

First up was a lamb ‘Greek to Me Burger’ ($10.85) topped with what was a traditional Greek salad. Overjoyed to see that the patty was somewhere between medium and medium well, I languished its’ juiciness. Thank god for a Pub Chef that realizes not all burgers must be cooked to death. Loaded with feta, it was satisfying but I must admit to wishing that the feta was swooped up in a creamy tzatziki instead of its dryness competing with the juice of the lamb.

With catchy little names like ‘Under the Tuscan Bun’, ‘Don Juan’, ‘Skipper Dipper’ and an outrageous array of non conventional toppings – think walnuts, peanut butter, apples, satay sauce, Siberian prawns (get the picture?), you can’t help but feel a tad adventurous.

Our curiosity led us to the ‘New Mexican’ ($11.85). This was a concoction of salsa, Tabasco, guacamole, peanut butter, sweet potato and coriander and sounded like a good match to a chicken burger. Mexicans like their chicken, si? Actually not a burger at all but more of a sandwich with a piece of grilled chicken as opposed to ground meat. I guess I could get over that part but this was straight up a grossly weird emulsion of toppings. The sweet potato mixed with peanut butter just made for a pasty mess.

Skip that one and let’s move onto the bison burger (an additional $2.75 but worth every cent). So meaty, so tender, so lean – this is a man’s burger. I decided to dress it in some ‘Crème Caramel’ ($11.35). Caramelized onions and mushrooms were in abundance and the tangy BBQ sauce was a perfect mate. I would scratch the lettuce (too soggy), add a slice of chedder (extra $1.50), order a big pint (of whatever) and ask for extra napkins (this is a messy one).

Which side do you take? The onion rings get rave reviews, the sweet potato fries come with a tasty red pepper mayo, the fries are fries, the Village Potato Salad is just an explosion of mayo and not much to write to Babka about, the green salad (who orders salad with a burger?). Never tried the kraut-slaw because I won the debate.

The best part of the entire experience was the breaded pickles! Little sticks of dilly, crunchy goodness. They were stupid they were so good.

So, grab a few friends and stop by and if it’s a Sunday, I’m the girl with the blood shot eyes and the egg on her burger so come over say good morning – quietly.

Foxley

2009-03-10T16:01:00.000-04:00

By far one of the best meals I had in 2008 was at Foxley, 207 Ossington Avenue. Executive chef and owner Thom Thai, has created a clean, simple and ever changing menu using exotic ingredients. The idea is tapas based with an Asian and Mediterranean influence.

We waited 45 minutes because there are all of fourteen tables and they don't take reservations. Don't worry; it is well worth the wait.

The side ribs with a caramelized shallot glaze are fall off the bone goodness. The sauce is perfectly sticky and saucy at the same time. My friend was diligently trying to soak up the sauce from the empty plate until the waiter snatched it up and sadness ensued.

The hamachi ceviche with tomato salsa was light and refreshing and although we ordered five dishes at the same time, I was impressed that they brought that one out first. A perfect start and a best friend to the glass of sparkling wine I had ordered.

My favourite dish was the spiced lamb wrapped in a lot leaf. To be honest, I don't know what a lot leaf is but I liked it, a lot.

Skip the avocado and blue crab salad; it's nothing to write home about.

I also wouldn't bother with desserts. He has two: crème brule with black sesame and a rice pudding with fresh mango. The custard of the brule had the consistently of goat cheese which wasn't bad but odd. The rice pudding was very lack luster and extremely el dente.

The wine list is reasonable and extensive for such a small place.

The service was alright but what can I say, being a waitress as made me very critical.

The prices are very reasonable.

The experience was a bouquet of awesome.

The Black Hoof, published on blogto.com - 2008

2009-03-10T15:22:00.000-04:00

After opening to rave reviews, this city’s newest hit is The Black Hoof, 928 Dundas Street West, and I was dying to pay them a visit. So last night with three companions in tow we descended upon the teeny charcuterie joint with empty stomachs and panache for some straight up meat...

keep reading at http://www.blogto.com/restaurants/blackhoof

Le Paradis

2009-03-05T21:13:00.000-05:00

I would not have chosen this restaurant but the girls called and I could not miss out on one of our dinners. If you could be a fly on the wall for any one of our nights out then you too would not be able to decline.

The location was a French bistro named Le Paradis, 166 Bedford at Davenport. If the word bistro is beginning to make you shudder, I completely feel you. Sigh. Let’s start with the atmosphere: when you first walk in you are smacked in the face by the big, wooden bar and black and white tiles (quelle surprise). The tiling quickly turns to blue carpet as you make your way up to the second floor. Um, when are owners going to realize that carpet and baguette crumbs are never a smart partnership. The rest was dusty, old, burgundy banquettes, white tables with brown paper and here’s another shocker... Parisienne art i.e. Martini Rossi and Moutard posters.

The menu, which changes daily was equally as lack lustre. The apps were the French typical: a fish soup ($5), mussels in garlic white wine ($8), goat cheese something avec something or other ($7), a verte salade ($5), etc. I could’ve fallen asleep in my glass of Gamay.

I chose the fish soup and apparently chose wrong. Not that the others were any better but at least the goat cheese with ratatouille didn’t taste like dish water. And I am being oh so serious here. The soup tasted like someone had left shrimp skins sitting in a sink of luke warm water and decided to make a soup out of it. Delicious.

Mains were equally as blah. Ok, so some of them sounded good. I was actually confident in my selection of a braised lamb shoulder with artichokes, tomatoes and garlic ($15). Yet, the pictures of fish on the menu next to the ‘Poisson’ category should’ve set off some alarms. It was room temperature, watery, tasteless (are there no herbs du Provence in this so called French kitchen?) The artichokes were either from a can or jar. Don’t know which one but either is wrong. Realizing that a shoulder cut could and would be fatty and stringy, I whole heartedly dug in. First bite – big chunk of fat. Second bite – big chunk of fat. Third bite – “Rita, if you keep eating this you too will be a big chunk of fat”. I didn’t mind the stringy sort of stewy texture but the fat was off the charts. I don’t often do this but I stopped and set my utensils down. It simply wasn’t worth eating.

For dessert, we entertained the small cheese plate ($8). Small in size it was not. Small in variety it was. This was the first ‘one type’ cheese plate I have ever seen. It was Blue and served with toasted bread that was so hard it must have been toasted two weeks ago. We laughed though because with every bite you became deaf while you chewed it.

The service was alright. My friends liked her no nonsense approach but I classify it as French abrasive. She was serious, kind of cold, lacking in eye contact and she kept speaking French to us which annoyed me to pieces. Apparently she started this because our friend started speaking to her in French but whatever the reason, I thought it was kitschy and unnecessary. The white shirt/black pant uniform circa 1989 didn’t help matters either.

The bottom line is, if ‘Restaurant Makeover’ is out there please give this place a call because they are in need of a serious overhaul.

Torito

2009-03-05T20:54:00.000-05:00

I have to admit that having travelled throughout Spain, my expectations were pretty high for Torito, 276 Augusta Avenue. I mean really, can you compare snacking on tapas in a plaza in Madrid to doing so in Kensington Market in Toronto? I am happy to report that minus the wafts of cigarette smoke and frantic fan waving, yes you can.

I was impressed by the authenticity of both the wine list and the menu. All wines are of the Spanish variety, including your usual offering of Sangria, Cava and San Miguel beer. Ole!

While we started on our pitcher of white Sangria, we began perusing the menu. Although somewhat small, the list is complete with both cold and hot tapas and a couple of desserts.

Excitement ensued, we started ordering and we didn’t stop until we were so stuffed and full of regret after ordering what must have been our eighth dish (keep in mind that there were only two of us).

What I like about tapas is that there is no huge commitment. You can experiment without having to consume an eight ounce portion of something that you just learned you don't like. This is what happened when I ordered the quail ($12). It sounded nice with its pomegranate glaze but no gracias. I felt like I was eating a pigeon, a dirty pigeon, like the kind that fly around the Yonge and Dundas Square. Everything else was delightfully delish.

The ceviche with corn and yams ($10) had a wonderful texture. The chorizo and patatas bravas ($9) was also quite good but then again who in their right mind doesn't like sausage and potatoes? The chorizo was a tad over cooked but had a nice, slightly spicy flavour. The tomato puree that sat in the bottom of the plate was so concentrated that you felt like you were sitting a bushel. I was glad to see that the aioli was light instead of the sickening mayo concoction it usually is. You must try the gazpacho ($8). The only way to describe it is that it tasted like summer. Somehow they put the season in a bowl and that's impressive. But, if I had to insist on one dish it would be the Piquillo peppers stuffed with salted cod ($9). The peppers bursted with flavour and the cod, although salted, had a mild taste and a smooth and velvety consistency.We didn't order dessert but they have three to choose from.

Overall, we ate well, we certainly drank well, we reminisced about our time in Spain, we sang Gypsy Kings songs and when the waiter wasn't around we pretended to order our next dish in Spanish.

Yes, we really did.

Merci Mon Ami, reviewed for Single Men's Magazine

2009-03-05T20:50:00.000-05:00

Want a little lunchtime oasis that allows you to relax in an open, airy and sunlit filled space that doesn’t resemble anything close to a cafeteria? Look no further than Merci Mon Ami, 171 East Liberty Street #107. This little cafe style lunch bistro has been serving up some of the freshest lunch fare that this neighbourhood has to offer for about 10 months. Owners Kevin and Cindy (also the Executive Chef) clearly have an affection for the Francais with their fresh baguette style sandwiches, jazzy tunes and Parisian artwork. They also host the crowd, have befriended the regulars and run their catering business out of the same kitchen.

The soup du jour was roasted vegetable puree with seasoned croutons ($5). Not the most exciting of soups but well executed. It tasted fresh unlike most soups of the day that are made from last weeks’ leftovers – trust me I work in the industry.

For the main event, I requested their most popular sandwich and was presented with the pesto chicken supreme ($10). Aw chicken. The good old Canadian stand by. Usually overcooked and dry as a bone. What people order because they are too afraid to try anything different. Well, I have good news. This sandwich beats most with an actually juicy and tender breast, sautéed button mushrooms, caramelized onions, sundried tomato pesto and cheese. The Kaiser was perfectly pressed in the panini maker and the side salad, although over dressed, was unusual. It was comprised of Mesculin greens, dried cranberries, gummy bear like apricots, grape tomatoes, walnuts and onions. The dressing was an interesting mix of sesame oil? Garlic chilli oil? Rice vinegar? I’m stumped. Apparently not even Kevin knows Cindy’s secret recipe.

Tired of processed luncheon meat? Fed up with puny sandwiches that have you starving in a few hours? Try out their Roasted Turkey Sandwich ($11). They carefully carve a house roasted bird and pile it unto a baguette with homemade stuffing and all the trimmings . The result is Thanksgiving dinner on a bun (minus the in-laws).

The salad of the day ($6) was unfortunately just a slight variation of the house without the apricots, cranberries and secret dressing. This time avec bleu cheese and a more recognizable vinaigrette.

All ingredients were bright and colourful. No deep fried, soggy veal panini here. The bread is freshly made by local bakeries. The communal tables stimulate conversation. The large west facing patio in front would be amazing in the warmer months. They are also actively supporting the environment which means that you are too when you dine there. They have gone green with all the takeout containers and utensils being biodegradable and the napkins are made from recycled paper.

And don’t worry, you don’t have to work in the village to eat here because parking is a plenty. You can actually park for free all along East Liberty Street.

When thinking of where to go for a great sandwich, a nice little lunch date or where to hold your next meeting or intimate social gathering, give Kevin and Cindy a ring and if she reveals the secret, you can give me ring.

Terroni

2009-03-05T20:43:00.000-05:00

I have been going to Terroni, 720 Queen Street West, for the past two years and have enjoyed every single meal I have had there. It has been a Toronto institution since 1992 and if you haven’t been then you are seriously missing out. Having been to Italy, I will announce that this is the real deal.

Terroni has been both praised and criticized. I guess this is what happens when you have struck gold and all your friends become jealous. They do not take reservations, changes or substitutions to their menu; they don’t even cut the pizza. Big deal. Are we that impatient that we can’t wait 15 minutes for dinner? So egotistical that we challenge chefs on how a dish should be made? And so lazy that we can’t cut our own food?

A so called Terroni vs. Libretto war has emerged since the latter’s opening last year. Some are divided but Terroni’s pizza is by far superior. The only thing Libretto has going for it is its’ wood burning stove from Naples and the diner’s option of having spelt crust.

I recall my first two visits to Terroni:

The line up was fifteen people deep but no one seemed to care. The place was alive with hustle and bustle, conversation and laughter. The smell of tomato sauce was intoxicating and we were salivating. This is no joke.

Terroni is known for their thinner than thin crust pizza but we were all craving pasta. Clearly, we had a dilemma. The solution? Pizza as an appetizer – I have continued this practice at each return. The Capriciosa pizza in all its’ salami glory really got our stomachs going. Fresh spaghetti tossed in aglio e olio with lemon zest, spinach and capers made my mouth sing. This is exactly the kind of pasta would enjoy in Italy (minus the $1200 plane ticket). Fresh not dried and paired with simple but bright ingredients. Even the wine brought me back to the boot. Served in ceramic jugs and drank out of glass cups. Brava!

That is when my addiction started and I returned a few weeks later. This time the Natalina pizza started things off. Calabrese salami, roasted red peppers and wrinkly black olives makes me think of my father. He immigrated to Toronto from Calabria in 1957. Growing up, he would always end dinner with those salty black olives. I hated them then but have come to love them now.

Moving on with the spaghetti alla Norma, I am content – again. Sautéed eggplant and fresh ricotta dance around the pasta in an authentic tomato sauce. I smothered it Grana Padano because apparently one cheese was just not enough. My date had the linguine al frutti di mare. Its’ aromas were reminiscent of standing by the shore in Bari where you can smell the sea salt in the air so much that you think if you stick out your tongue you could taste it.

Other dishes that get honourable mention are the pappardelle all iosa. Homemade spicy sausage, peas and button mushrooms come together in another nonna style dish. A rich and tender lamb ragu smothers orrechiette and perfectly sticks in the crevices. One time, there was a special of gnocchi tossed with Italian greens that tasted like spring.

This is one kitchen that knows how to appeal to your senses. Your eyes feast on colours and your nose fills with scents. Your tongue, well that’s the best part, it’s so pleased it doesn’t know what to do but to keep eating.

The Harbord Room, published on blogto.com - 2009

2009-03-05T18:40:00.000-05:00

The Harbord Room, 89 Harbord Street, was recently voted ‘the third best new restaurant in Canada’ by Enroute Magazine. Toronto critics have raved and relished and the word on the street is this is the place to see and be seen...

keep reading at http://www.blogto.com/announcements/2009/03/the_salty_and_the_sublime_at_the_harbord_room/

Welcome to my New Website

2009-03-05T14:01:00.000-05:00

I am pleased to launch my new website. On this site you will find all my restaurant reviews along with tagged locations thanks to my unique Mymap tool. So please keep coming back as I will be continually adding new posts. I look forward to your comments.

I want to give a special thanks to Inertia Creative Group for designing my logo and laying out my website. I would also like to thank Clickmycommunity. With their unique mapping tool I am able to tag all the locations I have visited and share a description and photos.